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California
> San Francisco B…
> E Bay Area
> Mt Diablo SP
> Pine Canyon
> Flintstone Rock
Yabba Dabba Dudes
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2.7 from 49
votes
Routes in Flintstone Rock
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Oona Kuma S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oona Kuma Direct S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pigeon Tunnel TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quarry, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yabba Dabba Dudes S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Norman Boles, John Gatti 1991 |
| Page Views: | 6,138 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 18, 2001 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This climb ascends the only bolts on the face of Flintstone rock, heading up and left the right side of the south face.
Climbing is sketchy and scary, so this is probably not a good project for your first .10 lead. Additionally, climbing faces south, so on a hot summer day the rock will soften even more, and your hands will ooze with sweat. But, the climb is great, the seemingly blank face will make its pockety grips appear as you head up the slabby route.
The lowest bolt is about 20 feet off the ground, and well after the crux of the route, so either stick clip the first bolt, or hang on and climb through. Many of the holds and bolts on this route will not hold your weight independently. A fall before the first bolt will send you off the rock and after an unpleasant uneven bounce into the sharp thorny bushes surrounding the base of this rock, which would really not be a fun experience.
Climbing is sketchy and scary, so this is probably not a good project for your first .10 lead. Additionally, climbing faces south, so on a hot summer day the rock will soften even more, and your hands will ooze with sweat. But, the climb is great, the seemingly blank face will make its pockety grips appear as you head up the slabby route.
The lowest bolt is about 20 feet off the ground, and well after the crux of the route, so either stick clip the first bolt, or hang on and climb through. Many of the holds and bolts on this route will not hold your weight independently. A fall before the first bolt will send you off the rock and after an unpleasant uneven bounce into the sharp thorny bushes surrounding the base of this rock, which would really not be a fun experience.
Protection
Seven bolts to a 1 bolt top anchor. Lowering off of this bolt is really not a good idea, just walk off the top.
To set up a top anchor, bring a long sling (30') and use the rocks and trees behind the route just right of the outlet of the pidgeon tunnel (5.8), these rocks and trees can be accessed following a trail through the trees and shrubs on the top of the right side of the rock.
To set up a top anchor, bring a long sling (30') and use the rocks and trees behind the route just right of the outlet of the pidgeon tunnel (5.8), these rocks and trees can be accessed following a trail through the trees and shrubs on the top of the right side of the rock.
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