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Routes in -Shagg Crag
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Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Diesel S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Elephant Knows, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Freedom Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Generous Sons S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ginseng Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grand Escape, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grimas De Oro V8 7B |
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It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lady’s Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Long and Short of It, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nice Lady S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Night Moves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open Project S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Raging Bull, The V8 7B |
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Rain Czech S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ritual, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Screw It S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Shagg Zag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Short Bobcat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Solstice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Summer Smoke S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ubershagg S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Name S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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What About Bob? S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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When the fat lady sings S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Bob Parrott |
| Page Views: | 14,755 total · 74/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
2024. Update: Nesting peregrine falcons have been confirmed on the right (southeast) side of Shagg Crag.
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
Ginseng is perhaps the best route at Shagg. It's pretty much the perfect endurance test (for the Northeast). Start off a pile of boulders left of the obvious right-angling weakness of The Great Escape (10d).
The first half of the route climbs up a beautiful pane of Shagg's trademark fine-grained granite. Unlike granite elsewhere in the area, this rock forms into perfect horizontal slots that make for good, if a bit slopey, handholds. A few taxing moves take you to a break. This is where the cliff changes to schist and the angle kicks back even more.
The schist is a bit reminiscent of the rock at Orange Crush at Rumney and offers interesting big flake/sidepull features. Like all good endurance routes, a tough move guards the anchors.
The first half of the route climbs up a beautiful pane of Shagg's trademark fine-grained granite. Unlike granite elsewhere in the area, this rock forms into perfect horizontal slots that make for good, if a bit slopey, handholds. A few taxing moves take you to a break. This is where the cliff changes to schist and the angle kicks back even more.
The schist is a bit reminiscent of the rock at Orange Crush at Rumney and offers interesting big flake/sidepull features. Like all good endurance routes, a tough move guards the anchors.
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