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Edge of Fright
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.9 from 9
votes
Routes in Poe Buttress
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Edge of Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Maelstrom, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mississippi Half-Step T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Off Your Rocker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Prequel to the Sequel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Terrapin Station T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Uptown Toodeloo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Noel Childs and Rufus Miller |
| Page Views: | 3,107 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Stricker on Dec 5, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Edge of Fright joins Mississippi Half Step as one of the "Triple Crown" classics on the Poe Buttress. It links up three cracks on the right edge of the buttress, and is characterized by committing moves above small protection.
The first pitch begins with the Half Step, then steps right at the obvious, horizontal crack and continues up a positive, finger crack (5.10).
The second pitch is the Business, and begins directly above the bolted anchor on the belay ledge. Climb slabby moves to an easy hand and fist crack. Collect your psyche, place some pro then step left and climb a thin seam with hard to place small protection. A rest is gained at the horizontal before making hard moves left to the final crack. Another tenuous rest is followed by a challenging, final crack which eventually widens to thin hands before stepping left again to join the Half Step at its second belay.
Although the Edge of Fright is a scary lead it protects pretty well with modern small gear. It is arguably the best route on the Poe Buttress. Get on it!
The first pitch begins with the Half Step, then steps right at the obvious, horizontal crack and continues up a positive, finger crack (5.10).
The second pitch is the Business, and begins directly above the bolted anchor on the belay ledge. Climb slabby moves to an easy hand and fist crack. Collect your psyche, place some pro then step left and climb a thin seam with hard to place small protection. A rest is gained at the horizontal before making hard moves left to the final crack. Another tenuous rest is followed by a challenging, final crack which eventually widens to thin hands before stepping left again to join the Half Step at its second belay.
Although the Edge of Fright is a scary lead it protects pretty well with modern small gear. It is arguably the best route on the Poe Buttress. Get on it!
Location
The route is on the far right side of the Poe Buttress. A 70M rope will get you down from the botled anchor at the top of pitch 2 of the Half Step. Or continue to the top of Uptown Toodaloo and do 3 rappels with a 60M rope down Off Your Rocker.
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