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Rock Climbing Photo: Fixed rivet hanger on old bolt.  Hole is too small...
Id# 106060554, 2000 x 1500px View full size
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 22, 2008
Holy moly. Not sure which I trust the least, the rivet or the swaged wire loop.
By ryan mattock
From: calabasas Ca
Jan 8, 2009
That's my Home made wire hanger. glad I put it there for you in 2001.

That old aid line was put up by Geln Dawson on the early sixties.

today I came up to and and noticed some person had removed that old aid line.
please, to the person who removed the old aid line please replace the bolts I'm counting the days.
By ryan mattock
From: calabasas Ca
Apr 4, 2010
please read this supertopo thread because it tell with pictures who, what and where of Stoners point!.....bolt replaced just like the F.A would have!
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....
thank's
By dnaiscool
Apr 30, 2015
History Moment

The old bolt (not a rivet) is a Star Drive on a home-made hanger. The bolt itself is actually composed of 4 separate pieces: twin thin steel half-casings (You can see the outer flange of these) a full-wrap lead sleeve that occupies the deeper 50% of the depth of the hole, and a 5/16th inch steel nail....that's right, it is a nail. The head of the nail (clearly visible) was embossed with a five-point star; hence the name.

The driller would make a 2" x 3/8" hole, and then insert the two steel sleeves held together by that lead wrap. It was important to first send this rig through the hole in the bolt hanger, such that the flared ends of the inner sleeve would be visible. The you slammed the nail into the hole. The nail had a series of small ridges in the lower half, and the deformation of the lead inner jacket into the surrounding rock combined with the impressions the nail made in the steel sleeves was what held the bolt in place.

There was a time in the early 1960's when Royal Robbins actually argued that these were the superior type of bolt when compared to the "Split-shaft" ones found in the "Button Head" Leeper Hangers, and tests done in big chunks of Tahquitz granite revealed a Star Drive pull strength exceeding 2,000 pounds.

The old carabiners, mainly ovals, were much narrower than today's models, so clipping these old hangers was no problem. I recall -distinctly- when the first thick-nosed Chouinard carabiners hit the market and you'd be caught in a real pickle when your gear was too big for the bolt you needed to clip...yikes!! On more than one occasion I resorted to girth-hitching a wire stopper through the skinny old bolt holes to get the rope hanging...as a matter of fact, I even made it a habit to bring a fist full of wire nuts along just for that very reason.

That bolt was placed in the early 1950's, not the sixties; moreover, that route was common training ground for RCS members to learn direct aid from the early 50's to the early 70's.
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Fixed rivet hanger on old bolt. Hole is too small for a biner, so hang it!

Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Nov 12, 2007
On this route:
Old Aid Bolt Ladder (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1 PG13 )
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