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> San Francisco B…
> E Bay Area
> Mt Diablo SP
> Pine Canyon
> Rock of Ages
Evolution
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 58
votes
Routes in The Rock of Ages
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Cave Route S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Evolution S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Bolt Route TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Face S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 155 ft (47 m) |
| FA: | Chad Suchoski |
| Page Views: | 7,122 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 11, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
Starts 40 ft to the right of the Cave Route and shares the first five bolts with the West Face route. At the first cave, go left and continue up past a bolt and into a larger cave. From here, go out left (through a short crux) up a steep headwall. Continue strait up what seems to be a never ending wall. Nearly every bolt has a good stacne/rest where you clip it followed by sustained moves up holds that are hard to see. Searching around a bit before you commit to the next move usually produces a better hold or foot on this one. The topout's a bit spicy until you find the right holds (hint; go right!). A two bolt anchor awaits at the top. This route is 155 ft long almost exactly, so you need at least a 55m rope. You can break the route into two pitches by belaying from the anchors in the lower cave. Raptors use these caves for nesting every year so stay off these routes from Feb 1st throuth June 30th.
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