Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Lost Angel
|
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3 |
|
|
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
China Doll's Voyage (Link up of China Doll P1 into Earth Voyage P2) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Crack In the Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Dyno Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Escape From Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
|
|
Host, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Lacewing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Life on Mars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Light of Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Naked Lunch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Pistol Grip Pump T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Rock Odyssey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Horan & Klee |
| Page Views: | 1,111 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Pech on May 11, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
The 1st pitch of Disneyland follows a line of bolts directly up the face below Lost Angel's South Tower. The 2nd pitch ascends a beautiful arete and face to the summit of the Tower.
DISCLAIMER. because I rarely on-sight .11d, I found the protection at the crux unsettling. Afraid that I'd swing into a block if I took a fall, I stood in a sling, clipped the last bolt, and lowered to the stance at the bolt below before continuing. Better climbers may be more comfortable with the placement of the crux bolts.
Either follow the base of the cliff uphill from Autumn, past Zentropa, to the Long Dong Dihedral or hike down the Wake Up Wall approach gully to the corner of the South Tower, turn north, and descend another 50 yards to Long Dong.
P1. Start up the Long Dong Dihedral(?), then follow bolts up a technically interesting face to a stance below a bulge ending in a right-leaning dihedral. Struggle over the PG-13 bulge into the insecure, cramped dihedral, clip the last bolt, and grope for good holds out of sight above. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor below a ramp, .11d, 100', 13 bolts.
P2. Climb easily to the ramp, make a dicey traverse left around the west arete of the South Tower (extend 1 or 2 clips to reduce rope drag), then climb a steep, sustained wall just left of the arete to a 2 bolt anchor near the summit. .11a, 80', 10 bolts.
Rap the route or descend the Wake Up Wall approach gully.
3 Comments