Gore tex or soft shell??

So I'm in the process of planning a mid winter trip to Canada to go ice climbing and have a bit of a dilemma. I know that or been told that Canadian weather is colder(blinding glimpse of the obvious). I've only climbed ice in the lower 48. I'm wondering if I need to purchase a gore tex shell? I only climbed in gore tex until I found that gore tex really doesn't breathe, and so early on I purchased a soft shell jacket and salopettes. So do I need to purchase gore tex? any info would be great.

Hey Kevin, good question. I have been ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, as well as Colorado, and generally a softshell is sufficient for about 80% of what you may be doing. With that being said, I have climbed some routes near Canmore, Canada that still had copious amounts of water cascading down them, that soaked my softshell. I have a Marmot Sharp Point softshell that is pretty breathable and pretty waterproof, and an Arcteryx Beta AR Gore-Tex for when it gets really wet. True, Gore-Tex isn't all that breathable, but when you are ice climbing on wet routes, you'll definitely want it. There is also a more breathable waterproof fabric call eVent that isn't readily available in many garments for various reasons...but if you find an eVent garment, I'd say get it. Hope that helps.

thanks for the info! definitely the plan is to head to canmore. any recommendations of must do routes..

kevin fox wrote:thanks for the info! definitely the plan is to head to canmore. any recommendations of must do routes..

Yep!

For WI3-4 stuff, head to Louise Falls. For consistently great stuff at the grade and multi-day fun, the Ghost is great if you and your vehicle can handle the approach. Johnston Canyon is also awesome. Hard to go wrong in the ice climbing capitol of the world!

From an ex gear peddler:
I second the event vote. Or...Gore Paclite. Paclite is more breathable than gtx xcr and event is even more breathable than paclite. The only issue with event is that the label-whores have yet to embrace it so it is difficult to find a variety of pieces made from it. Typically you will not find pit-zips on an event piece. That is how good it is.

Hello Kevin,

I ice climb in both Canada and Colorado. It is colder in Canada of course. The coldest I have climbed there was -18F in the Canmore/Banff area without wildchill.

I wear Arcteryx Gamma MX up there with a balaclava. I have never felt the need to wear a hardshell up there. Down here in Colorado I wear a fleece most of the time. After climbing in Canada it seems hot down here : )

A softshell fits better and hugs the body better in my opinion...less bulk.

Not sure how hard you want to pull, but good places around Canmore/Banff:

WI2-4
King Creek
Cascade Falls
Professor Falls
Grotto Falls
Junkyards - 5 miuntes from Canmore

A little further away:

Lake Louise Falls WI3-5
Massey's WI4
Carlsberg WI5

Just to see them even if you don't climb them:

Weeping Wall WI 4-5
Polar Circus WI5

World class Mixed - Haffner Creek

Hope that helps,

Dale

thanks for the info. definitely we will hit up the weeping wall and polar circus.

I lived in Banff for 4 years and I think the only time I ever wore my goretex in t he winter was when there was wind. Its generally too cold for it to rain/wet-snow in the winter. Much of the Arcteryx stuff is designed by a guy who grew up in Canmore. .. so you know its the best for the environment. I tend to take multiple layers for my body. I lead with a puffy in a small pack on my back and put that on. IF I'm worried the wind might come up I carry a super light goretex shell in my pack. I use a one piece suit of long underwear and on cold days a thin layer below that. My legs have no goretex... Again, the arcteryx Salopette is the unit to have... with knee pads.
Dont go in January... the ice is often too cold and extrememly brittle.
IF the approach is long you might want to take a second pair of long underwear to change into.
Again, its not Colorado or Wyoming... I thought I was tough cus I grew up in Jackson, WY... the cold is much more extreem there. ONe thing that makes it different is that you can have subzero days with wind. Basically, prepare for early Alaska conditions and hope for far better. Truth be told, its not Colorado for a couple of reasons... the second being the ice climbs are WAAAYYY better than anything we have.

PS, no I'm not paid to say that stuff by arcteryx.... it just really is better than everyone elses stuff.

Sam Lightner, Jr. wrote:I lived in Banff for 4 years and I think the only time I ever wore my goretex in t he winter was when there was wind. Its generally too cold for it to rain/wet-snow in the winter. Much of the Arcteryx stuff is designed by a guy who grew up in Canmore. .. so you know its the best for the environment. I tend to take multiple layers for my body. I lead with a puffy in a small pack on my back and put that on. IF I'm worried the wind might come up I carry a super light goretex shell in my pack. I use a one piece suit of long underwear and on cold days a thin layer below that. My legs have no goretex... Again, the arcteryx Salopette is the unit to have... with knee pads. Dont go in January... the ice is often too cold and extrememly brittle. IF the approach is long you might want to take a second pair of long underwear to change into. Again, its not Colorado or Wyoming... I thought I was tough cus I grew up in Jackson, WY... the cold is much more extreem there. ONe thing that makes it different is that you can have subzero days with wind. Basically, prepare for early Alaska conditions and hope for far better. Truth be told, its not Colorado for a couple of reasons... the second being the ice climbs are WAAAYYY better than anything we have. PS, no I'm not paid to say that stuff by arcteryx.... it just really is better than everyone elses stuff.

I have to agree with Sam. I've been battled down in the "Ghost" and was definitely glad I had the right equip. I also use the clothing mentioned above, puffy coat for belays and a light shell just in case. I've had a lot of luck with a mid weight wool sweater too. Wool alway provides. Good luck, be ready for the beast, but often times you'll be pleasantly suprised.

Sam Lightner, Jr. wrote: PS, no I'm not paid to say that stuff by arcteryx.... it just really is better than everyone elses stuff.

Amen, probably the only gear manufacturer out there that has remained innovative since they started making soft goods. Too bad they use gore exclusively in their hard shells, not that it is a bad thing, gtx xcr is a great product when hard rain is a real factor. I just wish more gear manufacturers would embrace event. Way superior to gtx comfortwise, I am unsure of how it works once the DWR wears a little, with breathability like that I would assume that the DWR is crucial to it's performance, but then again when the DWR on a gtx piece wears you'll get more breathability out of a garbage bag.

In tests event has proven to be just as breathable as some microfibers. Microfibers!!! Insane.

Gore is overrated...I recommend a tweed/wool overcoat similar to this one....

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