Shady New River Gorge Crags

Hey all, a friend and I are headed up this weekend (along with the rest of the Boone, NC crew!) and it looks to be kinda hot. Just wondering about the shadiest options. I've climbed a lot at the Endless Wall, and it seems like with the numerous cirques and amphitheaters there, sun exposures are easy to play with. But then again, it wasn't hot that time either!
I've perused the book, and it's somewhat useful. Just looking for some insider "beta".

Have you considered deep water soloing up at Summersville?

Yeah. I heard access is kinda iffy right now with a death up there over the summer. Rumors of hefty fees, etc... Maybe they're just rumors.
Anyway, I'm more looking to get on some of the harder trad lines and really dislike climbing in the sun when it's over 75!

For shade climb at:
Kaymoor (anywhere) it gets shade all day long
Bubba City (especially down towards sandstonia) in the mornings
Summersville Lake (DC memorial boulder, long wall, Colleseum) other walls are in the sun all day
Junkyard wall (anywhere has god tree cover)

Do not climb at Bridge unless you want to get on Chockstone(classic) or another route over down towards south bridge wall.

If you want more beta on where to climb in the heat ask away, I spend summers guiding rock and trying to climb in the shade down at the NRG.

Don't get caught deep water soloing at summerville lake or any lake controlled by the army corps of enginners. They will fine you $5000 and you could get jail time...

Ladd Raine wrote: If you want more beta on where to climb in the heat ask away, I spend summers guiding rock and trying to climb in the shade down at the NRG.

Beauty mtn will be pretty sunny, amny of the cliffs there are much taller than the trees around them, get there very early.

Try out Entertainer(10a), Team Jesus(10a/b), Stuck in another dimension(11a), Antropov's Cold (11c) at Junkyard

Try Handsome and Well Hung(shade in the morning/afternoon 11a), Englishman's Crack (shade almost all day 11b) Marionette (Shade always 11c) at Bridge Buttress

Those are all mostly/always in the sun and classic

Tree Route...ewwww

I just don't like it as a rock climb. The beginning is slippery and sustained on bad smears then there is an awkward section of bad offwidth. The top is super classic and kind of makes the beginning worth it.

Ladd Raine wrote:Tree Route...ewwww I just don't like it as a rock climb. The beginning is slippery and sustained on bad smears then there is an awkward section of bad offwidth. The top is super classic and kind of makes the beginning worth it.

The akward section of offwidth is once you leave the face holds out left and have to mount the chockstone, also moving off the chockstone, thee is one fist jam back there but it isn't great, usually I squeeze chimney up through that section until I can stem the upper section.

There might be another way to do that section using some holds on the outside of the crack, but I've never tried that way.

That part is pretty awkward! I remember getting my knees on that chockstone to get around it.