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Routes in Waimea
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All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Catch the Wave S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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China Glide S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c |
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Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mr. Gerbick (Refined) S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a |
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Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R |
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Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rhythm X S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Riviera Don't Surf (Aka Riverboat Charlie) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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TABDITO S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Tim Gotwals 1987 |
| Page Views: | 5,184 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Aug 7, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This may be the least "Rumney" route at Rumney. First off it's protected by trad gear which is a mystery to many Rumney climbers. Second is that parts of it involve jamming and other crack techniques, but it's the squeeze chimney that really sets this one apart from other Rumney crack climbs. Most climbers find groveling in a tight chimney to be a less than preferable way to spend their time but some like myself find it to be part of being an all around climber and it can actually be fun and almost always exciting. Now I will be honest that That Crack is not the best climb of its kind but it is definitely worth while to those who appreciate such climbing styles.
Start to the left of Waimea (5.10d) under the arete of Livin Astro (5.14c) follow cracks until it is possible to wedge in to the narrow chimney (I found left side in to be preferable) and work slowly up placing gear in the crack in the back of the chimney. There is a tricky spot exiting the chimney as it narrows back down from chimney to crack size. Work up to under-clings and out right to the anchors.
As I lowered off I was surprised at how steep the route is. Next to Livin Astro it looks vertical but it's not. Have no fear however, the gear is good.
Start to the left of Waimea (5.10d) under the arete of Livin Astro (5.14c) follow cracks until it is possible to wedge in to the narrow chimney (I found left side in to be preferable) and work slowly up placing gear in the crack in the back of the chimney. There is a tricky spot exiting the chimney as it narrows back down from chimney to crack size. Work up to under-clings and out right to the anchors.
As I lowered off I was surprised at how steep the route is. Next to Livin Astro it looks vertical but it's not. Have no fear however, the gear is good.
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