need beta for Mt Katahdin Me

Hi,
I am new to Maine and want to do one of the technical routes on Katahdin. I don't know anything about the area regarding permits or where to camp for free or cheap or about trail heads, or which technical route is recommended. If anyone out there can give any beta that would be great.
Thanks,
Chris

Hey Chris,
The technical routes are in the north and south basin of Katahdin, and to access them you will need to spend the night in the park, probably before and after you climb. I have only climbed in the south basin, and staying at chimney pond is the way to go, but you need to reserve your spot. There is a great deal of information from the baxter state park web page: baxterstateparkauthority.com/ In the summer it is pretty easy to do, in the winter there is a bit more paper work involved. I have only done the chimney route there so far, last winter, and there is a description on this web site under the "in progress" section: mountainproject.com/v/_in_p… I am on my way to do the Armadillo in about a month and will post some information about that route afterwards. The two guide books that have helped me out are "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England" by Rick Wilcox and S. Peter Lewis, and "Selected Climbs of the Northeast" by S. Peter Lewis and Dave Horowitz. At the ranger station in Chimney pond there is a book of first hand route descritions with photographs of the lines. Good luck, have fun!

hey I just wanted to let you all know that our trip to Katahdin and up the Armadillo was great. I posted a description and a lot of photos under the "in progress " section.

This should be helpful if you plan on climbing in the winter.

neice.com/Articles/MT_Katad…

As far as rock routes go there is plenty to do and you can actually do it, the ranger must check your gear first, and if you leave fixed gear (bolts,pins) you will get a hefty fine.