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I Love a Cigar
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 8
votes
Routes in Land That Time Forgot
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African Flake S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Anasazi Arete (Pete Hubbel Memorial) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fire on the Horizon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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I Love a Cigar T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Knossos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Labyrinth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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North Buttress of Acid Rock S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Route that Time Forgot, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sea of Sorrow S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shadows on the Rock S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Bill Schmausser, Andy Kovats |
| Page Views: | 2,056 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Schmausser on May 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Most parties do the first three bolted pitches (10+,10b,10b), which are fantastic, rapping station to station before the crux roof fist crack on the fourth pitch. If you are inclined to take several #4-5 cams up here, it's fun to go all the way up. The 5th pitch checks in at 10b protected by all draws.
Per Doug Haller: P1. Scramble 20-30 feet up the right side of the two flakes to gain a small pointed ledge. Look for the first bolt about 20 feet up followed by a second bolt a body length higher and near a small flake/roof. Follow a line of bolts up and through the peak of the "A" shaped roof/overlap. Pull the overlap, and continue to the obvious ledge with two cold-shuts as anchors, 10 bolts, 100 feet.
P2. Locate the line of bolts trending up and left. Climb up and left along the bolt line using a faint but large dike in the rock for foot and hand holds As the route trends to the blunt arette, climb up and over a bulge to sight the anchors, 10 bolts.
P3. Pitch 3 pulls through two overlaps. From the anchors, climb steep slab to gain crack holds below the first overlap. The third bolt is out of sight but atop the edge of the overlap. Make a long reach and high step to gain a stance above the overlap. The second overlap is surmounted along a rail. Keep your focus to reach the anchors as the climbing is continuous.
Rap Riders in the Sky.
Per Doug Haller: P1. Scramble 20-30 feet up the right side of the two flakes to gain a small pointed ledge. Look for the first bolt about 20 feet up followed by a second bolt a body length higher and near a small flake/roof. Follow a line of bolts up and through the peak of the "A" shaped roof/overlap. Pull the overlap, and continue to the obvious ledge with two cold-shuts as anchors, 10 bolts, 100 feet.
P2. Locate the line of bolts trending up and left. Climb up and left along the bolt line using a faint but large dike in the rock for foot and hand holds As the route trends to the blunt arette, climb up and over a bulge to sight the anchors, 10 bolts.
P3. Pitch 3 pulls through two overlaps. From the anchors, climb steep slab to gain crack holds below the first overlap. The third bolt is out of sight but atop the edge of the overlap. Make a long reach and high step to gain a stance above the overlap. The second overlap is surmounted along a rail. Keep your focus to reach the anchors as the climbing is continuous.
Rap Riders in the Sky.
Location
Start up the face on a very large flake leaning against the wall, almost in the center of the main wall. It is about 70-80 feet left of Riders in the Sky.
Per Doug Haller: locate pitch 1 by looking for two large flakes at the base of the crag below a "A" shaped roof/overlap. The outer flake stands upright while the inner rests against the main wall. Both flakes are about 20 feet x 30 feet. Only the second bolt can be seen from the ground.
Per Doug Haller: locate pitch 1 by looking for two large flakes at the base of the crag below a "A" shaped roof/overlap. The outer flake stands upright while the inner rests against the main wall. Both flakes are about 20 feet x 30 feet. Only the second bolt can be seen from the ground.
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