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Otherworld
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Al Simons/James Barnum |
Page Views: | 701 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | allen simons on Sep 14, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Start at a slab under a line of 7 bolts. Climb up the center of the slab on pink granite past 3 bolts (5.7) to a lip and a roof/bulge. Pull the bolt protected roof (5.6) to a good stance. Climb the center of the upper slab past the three remaining bolts. The climbing gets progressively more difficult from that point as you go up, culminating in a 10a move, that is also well protected. A couple more moves get you to the top.
Location
Big T Canyon. Park on south side of road in paved pullout 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube. Walk back east down the road 75 yards, and fourth class up the side of the road heading east toward the obvious granite slabs on the hill side. [Otherworld] is another 50 yards up. Left of the larger slabs are multiple ribs of granite with rotten chossy blocks in between them. Otherworld is the lowest left Rib.
Protection
7 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at the top. NOTE: The anchor is placed in a buried boulder that has been the spot of many rappels from slings that were wrapped around it in the past. One doubled rope rappel to the bottom or continue up to other routes. Descent- from any of the upper slab or rib climbs work down (3rd/4th) class to a central gully with a 30 foot drop to the road. Rappel anchors to the road are located on the east side of the gully.
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