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Rock Climbing Photo: Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of y...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 6, 2011
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 4, 2007
Kris, this looks to me like Tarantula. Sepsen Wall goes up through the notch on the far left of the photo.
By James Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Jul 4, 2007
I'd second that...
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jul 4, 2007
Darn, I remember being told that it was 5.12, it was hard as heck and I was in a decent shape. My mistake, Jay -- please delete this photo.
By Adam Therneau
Jul 4, 2007
I belayed Kris on his attempt on the route shown. It started on Tarantula and then cut right over the big roof with a bolt for pro. We later did Tarantula staying in the corner, then traversing right up higher. Anyway, the route he tried was very hard and no one present was able to complete it. I looked at Swartling's guide to Devil's Lake, which seems to describe the one he tried as being Uberschmitt. However, the description in the guidebook doesn't match up with the description for Uberschmitt on this website and that was my only visit to the area, so perhaps the guide is wrong and we were on a different route altogether. Obviously it's not Sepsen Wall, but does anyone have an idea what route it is?
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 4, 2007
Looking closer, I don't think it's Tarantula. This is definitely not Ubershmitt either. I think Kris is trying a variation between Tarantula and Gargantua. I'm not sure about the bolt (piton?) since I have never seen one there. Does anyone have any info about this variation?
By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 5, 2007
I have seen the piton, and I've often wondered what it was for. While I've never been on Tarantula, I always thought it went up to the higher roof, then came right into the Gargantua crack. On Gargantua, I don't get anywhere near the pin until after pulling the roof, and then it's at my feet and worthless. I'll have to try this "Targantula" variation the next time I'm out there...
By Travis Hibbard
Jul 8, 2007
I was there over the weekend of the 4th and noticed the piton to the right of Tarantula, I figured it was some sort of variation to Gargantua but couldn't find anything about it in Swartling's book. Ubershmitt goes up the larger overhang to the left of Tarantula. New variation in the making, must've been pretty hard.
By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
Jun 12, 2009
I'm glad to see this photo pop up as the intro to OSA! And also glad to see that I am not the only climber confused by Swartling's description. I've climbed the Lake soooo many times, and OSA pretty frequently, and I'm on my 4th copy of the book--but there some places where it is too brief. That's my only criticism. I've looked at the new 3rd edition and it looks a little better (with the line marking routes). Anyway, I also see this as a "variation" between Tarantula and Gargantua. I was lead to this climb first by being unsure what Swartling was describing, and next by a desire to try everything there. I found it far easier than the direct version of Gargantua which I think is much much harder than 10b (and I've done my share of 10s, 11s and 12s at the lake). I have never seen anyone send the Gargantua roof with 10b skills! I have less trouble on 12a's.
By Tradiban
Jun 12, 2009
Uberschmitt is the small slab to the roof in the left of this picture. This is definitely Tarantula.
By Tradiban
Jul 2, 2009
Ah...I looked at this the other day. Tarantula stays left in the crack then traverses in a horizontal crack to where you then stand on the roof.
This is a slight variation of that, definitely harder, rusty pin included!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Dec 6, 2011
so whats up Rhoads, is this still a test piece waiting to be sent??
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Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of yet) climb at Old Sandstone. August '03

Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Jul 3, 2007
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