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Best Teton Guidebook?

Original Post
Eastvillage · · New York, NY · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 80

I'm hoping to do some climbing in the Tetons this summer and I was wondering about which guide is better, the Ortenburger or the 50 classics? I'm looking to climb classsic rock routes,
such as Irene's arete, The Grand, etc.
Thanks

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

I prefer the Ortenburger guide, aka the Bible. The Rossiter guide has out dated information as it is fairly old. The Ortenburger guide is awesome, and has lots of information, but it does take a while to figure out how it is organized.

I highly recommend this CD is you are interested in classic rock routes. It is awesome:

tetonrockclimbs.com/

You can easily print topos, etc. A local guy here in Jackson made it.

George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050

For just the classic lines, I would recommend Rossiter's guide. Sure it is older than Ortenburger/Jackson but the climbs don't change much. The Ortenburger/Jackson guide is much more comprehensive, but it can be hard to find the info because there is so much more. For example if you climb the N Face of the Grand, descend the OS, and then do the Black Dike Traverse the info is all there but you need to look in at least three sections of the book. Come to think of it, though, I'm not sure Rossiter mentions the Black Dike Traverse.

I'm not familiar with the CD guide, but it looks pretty good!

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Finding the approaches seems more to the task than the routes themselves.

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

The Jackson/Ortenburger guide is the one you want. The other basically scoops info off the J/O. All the interesteing info, as well as the pertinent info, is in the O/J guide. Also, Renny Jackson deserves your support for being the guy who saves your life out there. He has spent 40 years in the Tetons (I think Rossiter lives in Boulder) with much of that time spent pulling people out of places where they got in over their heads. I believe he is the only person to win the Congresional Medal of Valor for mountain rescues...

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Sam, I think that's gonna be either the Public Safety Officer Medal of Valor or Presidential Medal of Freedom (Congress pertains to the Medal of Honor - for military).

Ah, I think it might be the Dept of Interior Valor Award:

The Valor Award was established in 1957. It is the highest honor granted by the Department to employees who have shown unusual courage in the face of grave danger. This involves a situation where the employee is putting his or her life in jeopardy in attempting to save another. There is no requirement that the act be related to official duties or that the site of the incident be the official duty station. The Valor Award is based on the nature of the act and given individually. The Valor Award is approved by the Assistant Secretary - Fish and Wildlife and Parks. Recognition includes an engraved gold medal and a certificate and citation signed by the Secretary. This award is normally presented at a Departmental Honor Awards Convocation.

I couldn't find Renny listed in any respect, but that doesn't mean that is the case nor does it mean not deserving.

I am always interested to hear/read about Jenny Lake efforts.

Here's a notable one:

nps.gov/akso/Press/2004/kor…

(ps - sorry to go off-topic, but thought this was all interesting enough to post anyway)

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

I think the best way to go is getting up there as a team and just figuring it out.

Bryan Gartland · · Helena, MT · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 623

The Jackson/Ortenburger guide is worth buying even if you never climb in the Tetons. The historic tales and photos document the golden age of North American alpinism as well as anything anything out there.

Spiro Spiro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 110

This may be a stupid question, but is there any sport out there? I am going out for a short while in a week and would love to do some routes, but dont want to bring all my gear.

thanks

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

You want Forest Dramis' guidebook to Jackson Hole. Nothing in the Tetons, really (unless you count the ski area), but it covers Blacktail Butte and the other area very well. If you like technical vertical climbing, Blacktail is the bomb.
The Dramis guidebook is the one to get.

Forest · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 20

On the subject of the Dramis guidebook. It can be purchased in-town at Teton Mountaineering, Skinny Skis....in Moose, WY at Moosely Seconds and also at the Enclosure Climbing Gym located just south of town.

It can also be purchased online at REI.com

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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