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Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress Yosemite, sept...
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Middle Cathedral Rock
East Buttress
Yosemite, sept. 78'

This picture is very dear to me, because the climb and times were so special and almost magical to me. I did the East buttress my first season in Yosemite valley. I was 17 years old and living in camp 4. I had bumped into numerous Newhampshire climbers in Yosemite that season. One, my partner on the East Butt' was Paul Boissenault. He was/is like a daffy God to me. "Base" as he is affectionately known is an extremely talented climber, yet very modest and humble. He has always got a cheerful easy going 'tude and is just an all around, great guy.
When I bumped into base that fall I knew him slightly, but "of him" greatly from the Mount Washington valley N.H climbing scene. He and his good friend had made a trip out west and did some killer wall in the WindRiver range W.Y on the way to Yosemite, where they did the 13th ascent of Pacific Ocean Wall.
So you can imagine, I was honored to take base up on an offer to do the East Butt with him. I will never forget the climb. We thought we may not beat the crowd to the base (crowd, 1978 .. lmao) so we brought a bunch of tube chocks. Base said if we weren't first on the route then he would rather do this hideous offwidth thing right around the corner from the East butt' Thank God we had the route to ourselves, we went and looked at that offwidth thing. Jaws of hell I say, that's what all OW's are, hideous things. This was particularly nasty. you know the sustained .10d type madness only a masochist like Bob Scarpelli would come to enjoy.
Any way, wence we roped up for the climb, Base said he'd lead the first pitch. As he got about 20' up he said "when the rope runs out just start climbing, it's really easy for the first 5 or so pitches so we will just 'simul' up to the ledge before the bolt ladder. He had done the route before and was climbing in top form. I did not doubt my abilities and was realistic about the level of them. I thought 'hell if base says so, and he knows my ability..." OFF WE Go.
So that's what we did, we simul'd to the belay at the bolt ladder/5.10 face pitch. The we swapped leads till about 4 pitches below the top, were we simul'd off.
We were back in camp eating cookies and lounging well before dark.

Submitted By: Johnny Ray on Jun 13, 2007
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