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Leave it to Jesus
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 78
votes
Routes in G) Diamond Point
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Breadcrumb Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Can I Do It Till I Need Glasses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack A Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dark Side, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Durometer 64 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fine Motor Control S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gift of Grace, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Homer Erectus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leave it to Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leave it to Jesus Direct Finish T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ovine Seduction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raging Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remission T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Straight Up and Stiff T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Strike A Scowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stupendid Animation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Supersymmetry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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This Sport Needs an Enema S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Weatherman's Thumb, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Zygomatic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Cal Swoager, Stuart Kuperstock, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 16,387 total · 79/month |
| Shared By: | Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This is one of the New River superclassic crack climbs. The wall just right of the arete with the bolted 'Gift of Grace' is cut by a thin seam covered with chalk marks. The climb starts with a scary and strenuous to protect crack leading to a ledge on the right. From the ledge follow a slightly overhanging crack (5.10) to its top. Step left to a ledge with a good rest. Veer left and up using a thin seam with single finger pockets (crux). Climb the seam to the large horizontal crack below the roof. From here either traverse to the anchors on 'Gift of Grace' and lower, or continue to the top in a shallow corner with small gear, which will up the grade to a solid 5.11+.
Location
The route is located at the Diamond Point. Get down Honeymooner's Ladders and head right past orange wall with Quinsana Plus. Squeeze between large boulder and the wall with Jesus and Tequilla. Continue along the trail past the huge overhang. With the overhang to your right you should see the face with Leave it to Jesus in front of you.
Protection
The bottom first moves can be protected with a #3 or #2 cam and TCU's. On the easier section medium nuts are good. Small nuts in the thin seam. #1 and #.75 camalots are useful on the traverse. Place longer slings higher up on a climb or else traversing can turn into an epic. Bolted anchor.
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