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Dresden Corner
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3.9 from 21
votes
Routes in 2 Bridge Buttress
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A Touch of Tango T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Angel's Arete T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Are You An Idiot? T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Are You Experienced? T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Blunder and Frightening T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bridge At Bardo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Butterbeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Callback T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chockstone T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dog Fight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dresden Corner T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Easily Flakey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Englishman's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gag Reflex T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Handsome and Well-Hung T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Times T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Horton's Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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International Incident T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kerry Allen Memorial T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Labor Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Layback, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Let the Wind Blow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Let's Get Physical T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Locked on Target S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Macho Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marionette T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mayfly, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mega Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Penalty Situation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pirouette S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Preferred Dynamics T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Raptured T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sock Puppet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spine Tingling Bliss T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Strategem, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stretch Armstrong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Team Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tree Route, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Underfling T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Way Back, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whammy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Zag T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Mike Adams, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 3,938 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Awesome route. Protects pretty well with small TCU's and nuts all the way to the bolt. At the bolt there are some decent horizontal holds where it's possible to rest and it is also the last place to retreat without taking a whip. From here take a deep breath, go up and commit to the crux. Unless you can stop in the middle of a 5.11+ lieback, placing gear is possible only after the crux. Some 5.9 moves through or around the small roof finish the route.
Location
The route follows a shallow dihedral just left of Marionette (but before the large alcove with Chockstone).
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