Type: Ice, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Guy Lacelle and Shaun Parent, 1983
Page Views: 3,965 total · 19/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on May 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone

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Description Suggest change

One of the best-known grade 4's of the area. Solid ice, very well protected.

Pitch 1: Climb WI 3 bulges to a stance at the bottom of a vertical pillar. Guidebook mentions pins on the left for belay. We used slings in a v-thread right of the pillar.

Pitch 2: Climb the pillar (crux, WI 4) and several ice steps that follow to the top. Rap the route.

It can also be done in a single pitch. Double 60m ropes get you down to the belay anchors at the base. 70m ropes required to make it to the tree if the anchors are frozen over.

Location Suggest change

From Trans-Canada Pipeline Station drive for about 34 miles until you see the climb on the right. Leave the car on the pull off ~100 yards back, walk along the highway and climb the snow slopes to the climb.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws. Belay anchors at the base (on the left) and on top of the pillar (on the left).

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