Anyone climb S-Curve overhang recently?

Last Saturday (April 21st, 2007) I climbed the S-Curve overhang (5.11c) for the first time. Most of the pitons are missing (according to the number that are referenced in the Ruckman book). Once you establish yourself on the sloping shelf there were two pitons 1 foot apart (and my brother who followed my pulled the second piton out with his hands) and then no protection at all until the last piton protecting the move over the lip. I was expecting a couple of more pitons but luckily I had a couple of small cams on me.

Shouldn't there be more fixed protection on this route?

There should be more pins but I think they keep getting pulled out when they become loose. Big Cottonwood Quartzite is famous for not holding pins for long. Bringing cams should be standard practice now.

If the gear is good that would make it a much more interesting pitch. one or two sets of TCU's? up to medium cams? A general recommendation would be greatly appreciated.

I placed a .5 and a #1 camalot on the shelf. The best gear would probably be the size equivalent of BD camalots in the .4-.5 range (maybe even a little smaller). Two pieces of gear is probably sufficient to protect it. However, 4 pieces would provide plenty of protection, especially for the follower.

This route is pretty easily protected. I guess I am glad that I thought there would be more fixed pro because I am not comfortable on 11c trad and would not have tried it if it was listed as a "trad" route. However, the crux move/moves are protected by solid (solid as of April '07) pins and a bolt.

It's a great novelty climb. It even has a nice guano streak in the middle to dance around. Just bring a selection of "finger-sized" gear and some popcorn for all of the people who'll stop to watch.

thank you.

Does anyone know of the pro situation as of July 2008. I went up there this morning and clipped into the 1st piton near the belay and then the 1st bolt on the overhanging section. After pulling up that there was a piton about 6-8 ft on the leftward traverse. I didn't notice anyhing past that. We ran out of time and bailed. The plan is to return tomorrow, but I may be second guessing that if there is no other protection until the end. It looks like cam placements would be available but I worry about the angle of the placement causing the stem to break (or be severely bent) on a fall.

what kind of cam would you be using that the stem could break?

Well I guess it most likely wouldn't "break". I use BD cams and Metolius TCU's. Both have the braided steel wire. I am just concerned that a fall force perpendicular to the stem (with half of the stem in the crack and the other half out, like would happen on this climb) would severely bend the stem. I don't think I would be climbing on it after that and I'm not sure I want to lose $60+ in a cam. Maybe I'm crazy, but the engineer in me says that plastic deformation is BAD, like a paper clip being bent one way and then the other!

Would Tri Cams work in this crack? If they do, you could prevent the bending of your cam stems. If Tricams will stay in the crack they would be bomber and no worse for wear if you fall on them. The (new) black through brown, Maybe purple/blue, would probably be the right sizes. They run about $18.00 a piece so maybe get one and try it out up there. Just an idea...
Dallen

Tri-Cams!!! I had that same thought as I made another attempt this morning. I think I need to make a purchase! I was able to competently make the moves up to, and past the 1st (only) bolt now that I know where the holds are! However, when I looked down the traverse ledge with my feet dangling in space I lost my nerve, especially knowing that I would have to place pro! What is the opinion of bolting this route? I am really on the fence. Now that I am heavily into trad I would say that you shouldn't bolt something that could be protected. However, I trad in LCC and a climb like this seems more like a sport route in my mind. Any thoughts???

This route was actually first aided back in the 60's. When the Ruckman's did their free ascent, I think they fully intended to have the route pre-protected with pins. When I did the route, all of the pins where still there. I gladly clipped them...being kinda tall, it's awkward under there. It would be quite the pumpfest, to be hanging out placing cams in that crack.

The mention of bolts, seemes harsh, although it is a unique situation. On Enemy Within, (an overhanging arete) Stuart(Ruckman)placed 2 bolts next to a crack after learning that his pins weren't holding...so maybe he might relent. Think it would be best to contact the FA party.

I doubt that I would be placing bolts. I think that I am leaning more these days to the "clean" method of climbing.

As far as the moves once you are on the "shelf" how is it commonly done? My thoughts (just looking across the traverse from the first section of it) are that your hands obviously follow the good crack in the back and your right foot heel hooks and follows along. Other than that (or just dangling by your hands!) I can't see how else you would do it. The ledge is too small to stand on and the underside of the roof is to steep and has almost nothing to put your feet on. I think that I am going to get a little more comfortable in the 5.11 range and come back in a month or so...

Tyler King wrote: My thoughts (just looking across the traverse from the first section of it) are that your hands obviously follow the good crack in the back and your right foot heel hooks and follows along....

Thanks for posting / updating this thread. I was hoping to go and run this line soon, thinking it was completely protected by pitons. Might re-think it as I am still learning how to place pro.

I just climb the S-Curve Overhang last week. Most pitons are gone, so bring several cams to protect this awesome crack. I also backed-up the anchor at the top above the lip, so it's now safe to rap from there. It protects very well and it's one of the best crack in BCC. Go do it!!!

Here's the update as of 7/3/21. The first pin near the belay is still intact. Next go up to the bolt. After clipping the bolt, and establishing yourself on the shelf, there is only one pin about ten feet left of the bolt. Don't be afraid to place gear in this thing (and remember to protect the follower) because it eats everything from .3 to .75. Near the lip, a set of glue-in bolts with lower off carabiners has been added as part of the rebolting of Dog Eat Dog. To the left of these is the piton near pulling the lip. We didn't pull the lip and instead lowered off the new anchor.

This thing was super exposed. Probably one of the most radical route's in the canyon. I'll be getting more comfortable with .11 trad before I come back to try and tick this one. 

To recap. 1 pin at start. 1 bolt. 1 pin after bolt. 2 glue-in's under lip. 1 pin to the left of new glue ins.