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Rock Climbing Photo: (Damn that focal point!) Bill Geist making the mov...
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 4, 2015
Jason...are those draws clipped correctly? The end clipped to the rope is oriented with the gate pressing against the rock. Isn't that a bad practice?
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2015
Hey Benjamin...I know how to clip draws and what textbook clips look like. In my 17 years of clipping bolts, I've never once seen the negative impacts of draw clipped "not optimally" so I go with personal preference most of the time and only really pay attention to it when I think it really matters.

I also wear a helmet when I want which isn't all the time.

But thanks for the concern.
By jonathan hemlock
Feb 29, 2016
...and despite that, the draws are clipped "correctly" anyway. Just looks like it's not because it has rotated up over the bolt hanger from the tension of bringing up the second.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 29, 2016
Very true, Jonathan. I've stopped using the skinny dyneema draws because of their penchant for twisting so easily like that.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 27, 2016
Nice double rope threading - I mean it; one doesn't see a lot of this in the US. Even if an extra rope is required for rappel almost all US climbers just clip the extra rope onto their haul loop, or worse; onto the harness gear rack.

So this is good to see.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Oct 9, 2016
..."because it has rotated up over the bolt hanger."
Granted, the hangers are aligned horizontally and not vertically, which affects the orientation of the top carabiner of the quickdraw.

Okay, Jason, so you know how to clip draws and in 17 years you've never had a problem with carabiner gates interacting badly with the rock. But the odds are better for not having problems when the gate is away from the rock. It isn't textbook to have three carabiners with the gates resting against the rock regardless of proper or improper clipping technique or rope tension.

Rock Climbing Photo: Perhaps like this?
Perhaps like this?

Rock Climbing Photo: The upper pitches of this route are stellar. Steep...
The upper pitches of this route are stellar. Steep but super positive face climbing on awesome rock. April 7th, 2007.

Now that's how it's supposed to be done.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tori cleaning the route.
Tori cleaning the route.

See...carabiner gates away from the rock.
Photo 2 of 52
Avg Score   4.6 from 7 votes
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(Damn that focal point!) Bill Geist making the moves through the crux on the second pitch. Great crack through a smooth, beautiful face. April 7, 2007.

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 10, 2007
On this route:
Inti Watana (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b )
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