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Fender Route (Water Music)
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 6
votes
Routes in Chair Rock
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Adrift with the Bajau T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blues for Allah T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Destination Unknown T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fender Route (Water Music) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Low Pressure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Right Stuff T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Ice T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Toot Suite aka Toot Suit T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trails of Tropical Lotions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Fender |
| Page Views: | 1,593 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
More and more as I drive towards Deckers, I've been noticing cars parked at the old Top of the World road. Looks like people are walking in. So, here are a few of my favorites.
On the backside (north side) of Chair Rocks is this great old route. Climb the wide crack on the left side, and finish with a great set of face moves protected by a bolt.
Per Jeremy Hakes: This route is on the north face of Chair Rocks, the tallest formation on this ranked Jefferson County Peak. The route is on the NE corner, facing north, just east of the large tree. The first 15-20' or so are decent foot/hand jams, but then the crack deepens, widens, and flares as it goes higher. The first pitch is about 170' long. Bring doubles or triples of #3s, 4s, and 5s. No fixed gear exists on P1. About 100' up, a small indentation exists on the climber's right, but it is 2' outside the crack you are climbing. It runs out after about 10'. Then a small indentation crack exists on the climber's left, temping you out of the crack, but no pro exists anywhere but in the crack. It is fairly unenjoyable. The very soft "arete" on your left finally dies into a jug, and then the P1 difficulties are over, the grade dropping to 5.4 or so for the last 20+'. A small belay ledge with a pothole exists below the bolts for P2. Not much to build a belay station with up here. P2 goes at a thin 5.9, but is over in about 10', ending with an awkward mantle move. Someone has removed the last bolt protecting this move. Pull up and over onto some sharp crystals, and head over to the main summit block. Cross the off-width (4th class) below you (another route goes up here, but is an awkward bulging squeeze chimney). Cross onto the main summit and tie into the 4 bolts here.
On the backside (north side) of Chair Rocks is this great old route. Climb the wide crack on the left side, and finish with a great set of face moves protected by a bolt.
Per Jeremy Hakes: This route is on the north face of Chair Rocks, the tallest formation on this ranked Jefferson County Peak. The route is on the NE corner, facing north, just east of the large tree. The first 15-20' or so are decent foot/hand jams, but then the crack deepens, widens, and flares as it goes higher. The first pitch is about 170' long. Bring doubles or triples of #3s, 4s, and 5s. No fixed gear exists on P1. About 100' up, a small indentation exists on the climber's right, but it is 2' outside the crack you are climbing. It runs out after about 10'. Then a small indentation crack exists on the climber's left, temping you out of the crack, but no pro exists anywhere but in the crack. It is fairly unenjoyable. The very soft "arete" on your left finally dies into a jug, and then the P1 difficulties are over, the grade dropping to 5.4 or so for the last 20+'. A small belay ledge with a pothole exists below the bolts for P2. Not much to build a belay station with up here. P2 goes at a thin 5.9, but is over in about 10', ending with an awkward mantle move. Someone has removed the last bolt protecting this move. Pull up and over onto some sharp crystals, and head over to the main summit block. Cross the off-width (4th class) below you (another route goes up here, but is an awkward bulging squeeze chimney). Cross onto the main summit and tie into the 4 bolts here.
Location
Rappel 120 feet from anchors.
Per Jeremy Hakes: NE corner of the north face of Chair Rocks. There is only 1 obvious line on this corner, then west a large, blank, slightly overhanging face, then Thin Ice 5.12c/d on the NW corner, followed by another potential route with rappel slings to the climber's left.
From the very top of the formation, low-angle rappel north to the lower rappel bolts (1 newer bolt, 1 older aluminum hanger bolt, 1 ringed piton "bolt") and rappel off the north face (170').
Per Jeremy Hakes: NE corner of the north face of Chair Rocks. There is only 1 obvious line on this corner, then west a large, blank, slightly overhanging face, then Thin Ice 5.12c/d on the NW corner, followed by another potential route with rappel slings to the climber's left.
From the very top of the formation, low-angle rappel north to the lower rappel bolts (1 newer bolt, 1 older aluminum hanger bolt, 1 ringed piton "bolt") and rappel off the north face (170').
Protection
Wide gear.
Per Jeremy Hakes: Cams from #2 up to a #5. A #6 would even work in a few spots. Doubles of all of these, except the #6. There are 2 bolts and a chopped bolt for protection on the short P2 (awkward mantle to top out). 4 bolts on the top of the formation for a low angle rappel to the north.
Per Jeremy Hakes: Cams from #2 up to a #5. A #6 would even work in a few spots. Doubles of all of these, except the #6. There are 2 bolts and a chopped bolt for protection on the short P2 (awkward mantle to top out). 4 bolts on the top of the formation for a low angle rappel to the north.
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