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Routes in Cleopatra's Chair
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NW Route (Cleopatra's Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Diedrich, Calhoun, Pitas, Pitas Nov. 1994 |
| Page Views: | 6,437 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | John J. Glime on Mar 7, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Arriving at the end of the road, with Cleopatra's Chair in front of you, the regular route is directly in front of you. Follow the obvious chimney. Listed are 4 pitches which are based on my judgement of rope drag. The route should be climbed using your best judgement.
Pitch one: Follow the corner/ramp for about 40 feet to the base of the chimney.
Pitch two: A wonderful, unique pitch! Sidestep through the chimney until you come to a two move section of climbing, then continue up to a sandy "saddle" next to the main buttress.
Pitch three: This is the aid pitch, and if you want to keep the climb at the 5.6 grade, you will take advantage of your partner's shoulders to stand on as you try to gain access to the right wall. (The shoulder stand is the A0.) Continue over the 20 foot bulge onto the main formation of Cleopatra's Chair.
Pitch four: Simul-climb or use your best judgement the remaining 350 feet to the summit of the formation. Note that the rock is brittle and ledgey on the upper sections, choose the easiest way to the top. The last 350 ft. is really just a roped up scramble.
Descent: Down scramble to the top of the 3rd pitch, as described above. Then work your way left and down to the cliff's edge to a drilled angle/tree rappel station. The free hanging rappel could be the most exciting part of the route, you won't soon forget it. (Two 50 meter ropes, or longer, are required.)
Pitch one: Follow the corner/ramp for about 40 feet to the base of the chimney.
Pitch two: A wonderful, unique pitch! Sidestep through the chimney until you come to a two move section of climbing, then continue up to a sandy "saddle" next to the main buttress.
Pitch three: This is the aid pitch, and if you want to keep the climb at the 5.6 grade, you will take advantage of your partner's shoulders to stand on as you try to gain access to the right wall. (The shoulder stand is the A0.) Continue over the 20 foot bulge onto the main formation of Cleopatra's Chair.
Pitch four: Simul-climb or use your best judgement the remaining 350 feet to the summit of the formation. Note that the rock is brittle and ledgey on the upper sections, choose the easiest way to the top. The last 350 ft. is really just a roped up scramble.
Descent: Down scramble to the top of the 3rd pitch, as described above. Then work your way left and down to the cliff's edge to a drilled angle/tree rappel station. The free hanging rappel could be the most exciting part of the route, you won't soon forget it. (Two 50 meter ropes, or longer, are required.)
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