Grand Teton: Black Ice Couloir

Anyone know what the prime season for this climb is? I'm trying to plan a trip. Anything I should know about the climb????

Prime season is traditionally Sep-Oct, although you can climb it any time during the summer. One problem is that the top of the Owen Spalding is directly over this route, so a lot of people on the Grand can add up to rockfall hazard. Thus, the ideal time was September with cold temps and after the guiding was over there was less traffic on the OS.

I've heard also that this climb is melting out due to global warming. But I have no recent experience with the route.

Finding the Valhalla Traverse is not trivial, esp in the dark!

i looked into the couloir last aug. (at the end of the month) and the ice was very "patch" in the last twoish pitches. it's still a climb, but you would just be connecting the ice through rock sections. i don't know what the snow year was last year, but my guess is that would have a lot to do with the route.

We had a boatload of snow last year (130% of normal).

I have heard the same thing about the route - patches of ice, but no longer a continuous ice climb.

Andy Laakmann wrote:I have heard the same thing about the route - patches of ice, but no longer a continuous ice climb.

Well shit. Any routes similar to Black Ice you guys would suggest?

The Valhalla Traverse is difficult to find. You can count 2 solid hours from the lower saddle to the north side of the mountain. There were a few cairns in 2002 but it was difficult to find. You should find the start of it the night before. You can always approach from the north via Valhalla canyon but that involves a significant stream crossing. Word is that there used to be a log to cross on, but it had washed away when we did that (2005). You should bivy in Valhalla Canyon and climb the Black Ice Couloir and Serendipity Arete in two days. Serendipity is lesser known but a tremendous climb.

The Enclosure Couloir is in the same area but is easier, shorter, and possibly not melting out as fast.

George Bell wrote:The Enclosure Couloir is in the same area but is easier, shorter, and possibly not melting out as fast.

Ditto the NW Coulior (aka "Harry's Highway") of the Middle Teton. Seems like its hangin' in there. Can be fun in the earlier season too, as just a steep snow romp, with a teeny bit of ice here and there.

I attempted this last year. September-ish. It was not in "climbable" shape, though got an ascent a few days later. As for the approach, the Valhalla Traverse is tricky, but not overly difficulty route-finding. In the dark, it may be bad.

As for the approach through Valhalla Canyon....crossing the stream isn't a big deal. I crossed it in August-ish of last year, there was no log, it didn't matter.

Serendipity Arete is quite a good climb.

anybody interested in heading up the grand this weekend?

I recall a few years back the enclosure couloir being more snow than ice... also not too steep, but enough to keep your attention when you can't get much pro in b/c there isn't much ice and are curious about wet snow slides. I think it would be a more-classic route if you can do a long day and finish it with upper 5 (?) pitches of the NW ridge of the Enclousure.

As stated, finding the VHT in darkness is a bit tricky... even if you've done it before.

I haven't heard of the Black Ice couloir being 'in' (such as shown in 'Fifty Favorite Climbs') in years... but would be happy to hear someone tell me otherwise!

Cheers!

mbrejcha wrote: Well shit. Any routes similar to Black Ice you guys would suggest?

I did the Enclosure Couloir in late July of '04, and at that time, it was classic, firm neve with ice just starting to form on the edges. I believe the previous winter had been average, with lots of snow in Dec-Jan and not much else. Very fun and soloable, and when combined w/ the NW Ridge of the enclosure/OS to top of the Grand, it made for an AWESOME day in the hills.
The Valhalla Traverse is more fun than everyone lets on... :).