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Updated Rebolting info for Thailand
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Jan 12, 2007

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From Sam Lightner Jr.
OK Folks... here is the latest update on rebolted stuff.
This is from Tom Cecil and his posse... they are in Siam right now getting it done. All routes were done with Titanium.

All three pitches of Roots, Rock and Reggae on Marley Wall as well as the 1st pitch of Catch a Fire

Both The Wave and Beautty and the Beast have been completely rebolted

Rolling Thunder at Generator Wall was redone.

They added 5 new pitches on Koh Ya Wa Bun. There is a 4 pitch 6c that goes to the top and a 1 pitch 6b down low. The dubbed the longer route "Thai-tainium" and the other is "To the Members"
The Monkey Wall, which was left out of the guidebook cus it was such a mess, now has been re-bolted and rejiggered, so to speak. This is good cus it give us yet another moderate area for afternoons.

Keep in mind that when we rebolt, we often reconfigure things (for the better). This means that anchor height, number of bolts, etc, might be slightly different from the guidebook and perhaps from the last time you did them. In an effort to conserve the limited number of Ti bolts we can afford, this is often a necessity.

Comments on Updated Rebolting info for Thailand Add Comment
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jan 17, 2007
I just had a question. . .
Why Titanium bolts?? Corrosion resistance??
By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Jan 18, 2007
That is correct, Rich. Titanium is more corrosion resistant than steel.
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jan 18, 2007
As of 2000, we had (at my count) 67 stainelss steel bolt failures. There have been more since, including some glue-in stainless failures. Many of these were the hangers failing... Petzl, Metolius, Fixe have all failed. If you want a real history of it have a look at the Thailand: A Climbers Guide. I have the whole history in there.
When you are on a bolt and it fails, it chages your whole outlook on sport climbing... If you are not hurt (I wasn't), it changes everything.
Some people have been badly injured. Many of them just don't climb anymore.
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jan 22, 2007
Ahhh I see. . .
Yeah, that would add some doubt to my sport cimbing if I had a bolt fail. Glad you weren't hurt and, thanks for the huge (and expensive) community service you guys are doing!!
I'm planning on heading out there next winter sometime so, it's good to know you guys are out there making things safer for all of us!
By krispyyo
From: Littleton, CO
Jan 22, 2007
ok, i hate to bring up such a sad thing, but I've been hearing some rumors, and I can't stand it anymore, I gotta know if they're true or not!! I was at Tonsai Feb, March, and April of '05, and it was probably the most amazing experience I've ever had. Now I've been hearing that the Thai mafia or whatever is knocking everything down, kicking out all the local businesses and building a piece of crap resort??!!!!! Is this true?? I hope not. Could someone who's there or who really knows the facts shed some light on this for me? Thanks.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jan 25, 2007
The one thing you can be sure of is that anyone there, not Thai and thus not connected, does not have the answer to this. However, I can tell you this; much of the land that is built on at Tonsai is squatted on, meaning that the proprietors could legally be kicked off... except that squatters have huge rights in Thailand, so they may not... which means the only way they can is how they could even if they outright own it, which is that someone big and mean makes them offers they can't refuse... which happens a lot (like how they squatted in the first place) but probably won't happen to Tonsai.
Why? Cus the beach sucks if you're not a climber. Most tourists like their sand and sea with some sea, which Tonsai lacks for half the day.
Also, the real big players in Krabi/AoNang money games are up to their ears in construction on Railay and Ao Nang.

The short of it is that nothing is gonna change soon for climbers except that the prices will go up about 30% a year (if the last 18 years mean anything).
But then, what do I know... I'm not Thai!
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jan 29, 2007
I have been pressed to tell everyone that the Titanium bolts placed by Tom and his Posse were provided by proceeds from "Thailand: A Climbers Guide" published by The Mountaineers.

The bolts are expensive. This is true. However, the most expensive commodity any of us have is time.... Tom and his friends put a bunch of time in their lives aside to get these bolts in for the rest of us. Thanks guys.

PS Rich... we found that Ti was the only element that could stand up to the acid in the rock, the chlorine gas, and the salt of a coastal and tropical climbing area. Other climbing areas are finding this out... but they are in denial. In short, i can tell you that you really shouldn't trust a steel bolt that is within 10 miles of the ocean... the warmer the climbing area, the faster it corrodes.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Feb 5, 2007
What do you make of this info ? posted at

Typical test results.

Taken from „Axiale Auspressversuche bei Fortbildungen der Sicherheitsforschung in Donautal und in Frankenjura 1“. Deutscher Alpenverein. (available as pdf) and test result obtained by myself and collegues.

Ushba Bolt (Buhler type glue-in developed for Thailand to overcome the corrosion problems)

Material. Titanium:10mm dia. 5 tests. 9kN, 9kN, 10kN (all broke at eye weld), 24kN, 34kN.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 5, 2007
Our latest bolts are't UShba's... They are grade 5 Titanium "U" bolts.
Not sure what to make of that. I've never seen an Ushba break, and i"ve
whipped on a lot of them.
However, I've seen a lot of steel bolts break. I'll say what I said in the guidebook..
"We dont know for sure that Titanium will work forever, but we do know that steel won't work for more than a few years."

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