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Good Beginner Cracks within 25 miles of Boulder

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,560

Can anyone recommend a good 5.4 or 5.5 crack climb that can actually be liebacked or requires some level of foot and hand jams? I'm trying to start someone who hates crack climbing out really easy but on a climb that utilizes crack technique.

Most everything I can think of below 5.6 people can cheat on by climbing the face.

Jeff Chapman · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 5

Personally, I like the 5.4 lieback onto my couch with a cold beer. Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Seriously though, I don't think you will find a pure lieback that easy -- you'd have to be in the 5.7 - 5.9 range. Check out the Dome in Boulder Canyon for some easy to moderate crack climbs. Good Luck.

Joel Larner · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 161

Not exactly 25 miles from Boulder, but not a hugely long drive either, try the Turkey Perch in Turkey Rocks. Turkey Rocks is closer than it might appear on a map, probably 2 hours from you.

As Jeff points out, not likely to find a real crack down at 5.5 or 5.6. Turkey Perch has numerous crack climbs that are not fakeable on the face, and are still pretty moderate cracks. They are all single pitch and can easily be top roped so your beginner partner does not have to pull your pro as they learn their crack technique. A great place to spend a day learning to play in cracks.

Bosier Parsons · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2003 · Points: 1,380

Try the Left Book at Lumpy Ridge. Slab, but a beautiful piece of granite. Zingando 5.5. White Wale 5.7. Hiatus 5.7 (great liebacking).

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

I would think Breezy -- P2, in Eldo would be a good one for you. As well, Wind Ridge & Calypso -- Ah, just goto the Wind Tower and climb everything you want.

Verschneidung @ 5.7 could be a possibilty.

Doug Redosh · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 161

Tennis Shoe Tango on Lens Rock, Lumpy Ridge, found under Estes Park Valley in the guide. 5.6, though only one or two moves are 5.6, 2 pitches, hand crack, some of the best crack climbing at the grade in the area. At the top, one can continue on to a 5.7 (maybe 5.7+) crack.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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