Type: Trad, Boulder, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Justin Edl and Vanessa Cassat, 2006
Page Views: 1,510 total · 7/month
Shared By: JNE on Nov 11, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This perfect splitter in bullet rock cracks the undulating underside of an immense boulder. The first bit isn't bad, and warms you up for the mean crux middle section which begins at a jug right where the crack gets very steep, and stays with you until the crack pinches down briefly to hands.  After this there is another jug, followed by another wide lesser crux section. The crack keeps switching between roughly forty five and sixty degrees, and its offset keeps swithching back and forth from left to right, so it is always throwing something new at you. Where the block meets the slab, just step off.  

The start is a narrow tunnel, but the rock behind you is only problematic for one bit right where it gets steep. There is another rock near the top right where it goes to hands, but it's barely noticeable to get around if you use the right sequence. Outside of the low nature of the boulder in those two places, this crack is absolutely world class. Though this thing doesn't sport any particularly hard moves, endurance over the distance proves the overall crux.

Location Suggest change

From the Heartbreak Hotel, head down the slabs at its northwesternmost end, aiming for the northwesternmost side of the slabs.  When you get to the ground on the northwesternmost side of the slabs, continue another couple hundred feet (at most) roughly westerly immediately along the cliff line, and you will run straight into this thing. The last part before getting to it is guarded by a complexity of fallen and dead trees, so when you run into a complex of dead trees, either go straight over them, or walk below them and then immediately look up and to your left and you will be looking right at it. People who get lost looking for this typically head below this complex of dead trees and end up below the boulder.

Alternately, you can walk along the Turtle Rock trail from its eastern side, and head up to the Heartbreak Hotel wherever you deem appropriate. If you go the wrong way up the hill, the going is especially slow, and all possible paths are a mess of boulders and bushes.

Protection Suggest change

A pad or two. The landing isn't the best in a couple places, but it is never too dangerous.

Photos

loading