Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
"Stick to the Mission"
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in The Mission
|
|
"Stick to the Mission" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Josh Gross and Sam Lightner |
| Page Views: | 1,909 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
"Stick to the Mission", a Toddism that kept so many of us focused on what mattered (climbing), follows the obvious dihedral to splitter on the southwest face.
P1 is a soft hand crack in a corner. A bit awkward but fun. Belay at the fixed anchors on the ledge.
P2 is the business. Do some face moves with a bolt protecting you (5.11) to the splitter. The crack starts as a good hands, then goes to cupped hands, then fists, and then at the dogleg it turns to 5 inches of OW that holds steady for 80 feet. The crux is getting out of the bombay chimney/pod and back into the offwidth. (You might want a #2 bigbro for this. The #5 friend fits perfect, but if you leave it there it will get pulled deep into the crack.) I fell on this move, but got it. Josh fired it. Its a lot easier if you can take off your helmet and don't have a huge rack of superfluous pieces (like 5 of each under 2.5... which got no use on this climb!) Continue on 5.10 ow for another 50 feet or so to the large ledge. An anchor here can take hand size pieces and a couple of 1.5's if you have them.
P3 follow the obvious 5.8 chimney and face holds to the summit. There are two summits... the north one being higher but the south one having the rappel.
Rap the route in two legs
P1 is a soft hand crack in a corner. A bit awkward but fun. Belay at the fixed anchors on the ledge.
P2 is the business. Do some face moves with a bolt protecting you (5.11) to the splitter. The crack starts as a good hands, then goes to cupped hands, then fists, and then at the dogleg it turns to 5 inches of OW that holds steady for 80 feet. The crux is getting out of the bombay chimney/pod and back into the offwidth. (You might want a #2 bigbro for this. The #5 friend fits perfect, but if you leave it there it will get pulled deep into the crack.) I fell on this move, but got it. Josh fired it. Its a lot easier if you can take off your helmet and don't have a huge rack of superfluous pieces (like 5 of each under 2.5... which got no use on this climb!) Continue on 5.10 ow for another 50 feet or so to the large ledge. An anchor here can take hand size pieces and a couple of 1.5's if you have them.
P3 follow the obvious 5.8 chimney and face holds to the summit. There are two summits... the north one being higher but the south one having the rappel.
Rap the route in two legs
1 Comment