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Routes in I. Washington Column
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Afroman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3+ |
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Astroman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Ladyland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Jo Jo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mideast Crisis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Nowhere Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pitch to Nowhere T A3 |
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Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Re-Animator, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Skull Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Southern Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Ten Days After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Chuck Clance, Jeff Altenburg, and Steve Bosque, June 1984 |
| Page Views: | 16,110 total · 75/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Klein on Sep 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Skull Queen is a good alternative if the South Face is full. The aid is not much more difficult, a few micronut placements on pitch 8 and a few awkward placements on pitch 10. The last pitch is a stellar 5.10c finger crack. Climb to Dinner Ledge via South Face Route and do the Kor Roof pitch. Head right into the slanting crack (the bolt above the roof is for the S. Face route) and follow the rivet/bolt latter (in great condition as of June 2006). It is more or less straight up for 7 pitches from here (Supertopo or the Reid guides are accurate). Most likely will not need for a hammer or pins, and I was able to get away without using a hook either by doing a tricky free move (~.10a) on pitch 10 before the belay. I thought the quality of this route was a little better then the S. Face but they are pretty similar. Cheers, AK!
Location
Route starts same as S. Face. After summitting stay up and right on trail that leads to N. Dome Gully decent.
Protection
Standard Free Rack (2 sets of cams including small sizes, 1-2 sets of nuts), 1 #4.5 BD Camalot or equivalent, 1-2 sets micronuts or offsets, 12 rivet hangers for pitch 5, 1 hook. Route relies on a few fixed heads to remain clean (in great shape as of 2006), so you may want to bring a few mid-sized heads and a hammer just in case.
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