Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: FFA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, Lynn Wheeler 1984
Page Views: 1,195 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Collins on Aug 13, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Classic Piece Of Sh#! is just that A classic that will ever bring up frustrating and grueling memories. The route lies just around the corner to the right of the mega classic Mexican Crack. It starts in a left facing dihedral above a slabby ramp. It's steep, pumpy ,and very sequencial. The lower section climbs an easy crack with juggy flakes to the left. There is a shared bolt with the very cool Less Than Zero. After this point the climbing is in your face. The Crux is a left handed jam with a right hand crimp high in the crack.and move your feet on to a bulge in the crack. Taller guys will be major scrunched and every one will be wiggin out. I've blown it many times here, pulling gear and falling a lot farther than expected Woot! woo! Keep hold of the crimp and slide into another left hand jam. A good stem is to be had witch allows for a moment to collect your thoughts for the move around the arete. Feel for the nubbins and commit to the other face. From here it's smooth sailing to the chains following a finger crack.

Protection Suggest change

Rack
2 Green Aliens
2 Yellow Aliens
2 .5 BD
1 .75 BD
1 #1 BD
1 #2 BD
1 #3 BD
1 long sling to decrease rope drag around the arete

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