Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | FFA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, Lynn Wheeler 1984 |
Page Views: | 1,195 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Collins on Aug 13, 2006 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Classic Piece Of Sh#! is just that A classic that will ever bring up frustrating and grueling memories. The route lies just around the corner to the right of the mega classic Mexican Crack. It starts in a left facing dihedral above a slabby ramp. It's steep, pumpy ,and very sequencial. The lower section climbs an easy crack with juggy flakes to the left. There is a shared bolt with the very cool Less Than Zero. After this point the climbing is in your face. The Crux is a left handed jam with a right hand crimp high in the crack.and move your feet on to a bulge in the crack. Taller guys will be major scrunched and every one will be wiggin out. I've blown it many times here, pulling gear and falling a lot farther than expected Woot! woo! Keep hold of the crimp and slide into another left hand jam. A good stem is to be had witch allows for a moment to collect your thoughts for the move around the arete. Feel for the nubbins and commit to the other face. From here it's smooth sailing to the chains following a finger crack.
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