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Dance of the Sugar-Plum Faeries
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 136
votes
Routes in Shovel Point
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A Dream of White Sheep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Study in Scarlet TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balance of Power TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cornered TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dance of the Sugar-Plum Faeries TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Did Plato Love Trees? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ego-itis T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Gold Plated TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gravity Assist T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Great Barrier Roof, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Yawn, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Narcoleptic Epic T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Only The Lonely T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Out On A Limb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rise Over Run TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ross's Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sacred Biscuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Soldier of God TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Straight, No Chaser TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Straw House TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tree Route, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wake Up and Smell the Coffee TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 17,450 total · 80/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
As of now (05/18/2020) the route is closed to climbing due to peregrine falcon nesting.
As of 09/06/2020 nothing is closed due to falcon nesting
This is a large slab that contains four different variations listed from climbers left to right. Don't forget your camera, this route allows great views of the climber below set against the turquoise backdrop of Lake Superior. Because of its high quality, closer proximity to the parking lot, and variability in difficulty, this is one of the most popular climbs at Shovel Point. #1 (5.7) climb the inside corner. #2 (5.8) climb the left side of the face using the small crack and other hold. #3 (5.10b/c) climb the middle of the face using smaller holds. #4 (5.10d) climb the right side of the face if you are lucky enough to find any holds. I usually set up one rope to climb #1 and #2 and another rope to climb #3 and #4.
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