Rapping off

All Locations > Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the T… > Pingora > Northeast Face (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Rapping off

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Summit of Pingora in June

The knob hold around pitch 8 or 9. You gotta find this knob.

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4.4 from 7 votes

Ben Mottinger

May 26, 2006

“Rapping off”

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Pingora's Northeast Face approximate route shown. Don't use this as an accurate topo.

P2 - we climbed the face left of the dihedral to start, then crossed over into the dihedral at the rooflet feature (ref. photo). Climbing above this cross over on P2 was sustained and hard.

The view of Lonesome Lake from the Northeast Face, Mt. Mitchell on the right.

Summit of Pingora in June

Rapping off

The knob hold around pitch 8 or 9. You gotta find this knob.

Crux pitch of NE Face, Pingora. Photo credit: from a trip report by SuperTopo user PellucidWombat (http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Pingora-NE-Face/t12248n.html)<br>
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Based on the below link to an MP.com discussion, the left-most crack is the 5.8 wide option; the thinner middle crack is the 5.9 option that eventually (i.e., mid-pitch) merges with the left-most crack.<br>
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Over two days last July, 5 out of 6 parties instead went up the longer crack on the right which seems to be an independent and undocumented variation - at least 1 party unknowingly did so (perhaps all 5); I don't know how it compares to the other two options, but I thought it had some 5.10a/b move or two in it. Perhaps others who have done it and another option will chime in on how they compare to each other.<br>
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Link to MP.com discussion: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/crux-pitch-of-ne-face-pingora-which-way/109395485#a_109397003

P10 - more of a flaring open book shape. Tough 5.6

Pingora summit pano

Gary Hall leading an early pitch, August 1974

Nearing the top of the NE face, as a hail and snow storm sets in.

P6 - start of P6 with P7 off width visible above

Looking back while on NE Face.

Northeast face of Pingora. Summer '98.

Tight belay spot at the top of pitch 2 .

northeast face route starts above and right of water streaked slabs

pitch 3? or so

Pika friend at the end of pitch 4!

Dave on lead.

P5 - this is looking down on P5 from the P6 belay. Landmark dihedral that forms the top 1/3rd of P5

Chris Owen on P3

Getting rejected with April snow and ice on NE Face. Trip Report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/04/wind-rivers-cirque-of-towers-april-2012.html

Our buddies on one of the many pitches that rise above beautiful wind river scenery on the northeast face

P4, long grassy seams

start of pitch 1. before you get to the first belay, you have to scramble up class 4 terrain verging on class 5. best to bivy up high and get an early start. we camped about a mile away and got lost in the dark on the way back, don't do that.

JAG at the summit of Pingora Aug22, 2016

The view from the peak overlooking the south end of the Wind River Range.

Brennen heading up pitch 1

Unknown climbers 7-30-23, taken via binoculars

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Michael Komarnitsky

Seattle, WA

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