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Wartley's Revenge
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 145
votes
Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side
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[Redacted] S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Big Bone Lick S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Burning Churches S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chemical Ali S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Clam, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Holy Road S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Island in the Sky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Littleneck S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lunatic To Love S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Modern Day Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Overnight Sensation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panic Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Riot Squad, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rude Femmes S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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That 10d S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Via Dolorosa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Rogers, Haack, Jern 72' free Thomas, Jones 78' |
| Page Views: | 14,175 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
One of the greatest trad climbs at Smith and amoung the best 5.11's.
The upper two pitches are rarely done, only pitch 1 is described here.
Start out with some tricky stemming (1st crux)up an open corner with a thin crack then move right folowing the crack. Follow excellent holds up the crack through a hand traverse section into a changing corners section and finally finishing with a single face move (second crux) below the anchor.
The upper two pitches are rarely done, only pitch 1 is described here.
Start out with some tricky stemming (1st crux)up an open corner with a thin crack then move right folowing the crack. Follow excellent holds up the crack through a hand traverse section into a changing corners section and finally finishing with a single face move (second crux) below the anchor.
Photos
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