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Routes in Altered States Gully
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A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Borrowed Time T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Magic Circus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gates T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Zenith T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Stuart, Bret Rucman 1989 |
| Page Views: | 693 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route changes pace from it's neighbors, in that you are forced to use some muscles as you undercling past the roof. The gear here is pumpy and hard to place, and after turning the corner it only gets worse, as the gear is marginal at best. The section of bottomed out seams ends at the bolt and you now have to contend with gritty slab climbing. All in all a good route, that gives you variety. The crux was the undercling sequence, although one of my partners thought it was the slab move above the bolt.
Location
Just left of Clutching at Straws, Thoroughflare climbs into an obvious roof and exits out the right side fia a thin crack for an undercling. Step back into the gully boulders and look for the one bolt above the roof.
Protection
Getting to the roof protects well with medium gear. Attaining the undercling-ing travers crack requires a couple of larger cams, followed tby the travers that takes small cams. Red Metolius, and Yellow to start it off. Around the corner a prayer is what you will need and your green Alien might work. 1 bolt is the fixed gear and it shares anchors with Clutching at Straws, so bring bail slings.
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