Coyote Calling
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 45 votes
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Kent Wheeler and Scott Lazar? |
Page Views: | 13,739 total · 63/month |
Shared By: | Ari Menitove on Apr 28, 2006 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Coyote Calling is a great, sustained route with lots of finger and thin hand cracks linked by thought provoking thin face sections. It's a bit harder than it's classic neighbor, Fine Jade, but in my opinion, it's just as good. It gets afternoon shade.
P1. Start in a finger crack in a shallow L facing corner, traverse left at a ledge with a bolt, and continue up a finger crack in a R facing corner that becomes a groove. Exit the groove via a tricky bulge (WAY harder than it looks from the ground, and the crux of the route - IMHO)and clip the anchor bolts. ~80', 5.11+
P2. Traverse L ~10' with cool face moves to gain a thin but gradually widening crack. Continue up the finger to hands crack to a ledge with anchors. The crux is pulling through a bulging groove with a hand crack in the back. ~100', 5.11.
P3. More fingers and thin hands with pumpy bulges but also so decent rests. The crux for me was a dastardly high step on sandy rock a mere foot or two below the anchors. This pitch ain't over 'til it's over. ~100', 5.11
P4. Traverse left 10-15' on thin but positive face holds to a seam that eventually turns into a finger crack. Indeed, the face climbing appears improbable at first, but all comes together to make for some thought-provoking climbing. Make sure to have a few small to medium stoppers and long runners to protect this section. The finger crack eventually widens to hands, and leads to a large ledge on Fine Jade that is about 25' below the summit of The Rectory. Climb the 3-bolt finish to Fine Jade to the summit. ~110', 5.11
P1. Start in a finger crack in a shallow L facing corner, traverse left at a ledge with a bolt, and continue up a finger crack in a R facing corner that becomes a groove. Exit the groove via a tricky bulge (WAY harder than it looks from the ground, and the crux of the route - IMHO)and clip the anchor bolts. ~80', 5.11+
P2. Traverse L ~10' with cool face moves to gain a thin but gradually widening crack. Continue up the finger to hands crack to a ledge with anchors. The crux is pulling through a bulging groove with a hand crack in the back. ~100', 5.11.
P3. More fingers and thin hands with pumpy bulges but also so decent rests. The crux for me was a dastardly high step on sandy rock a mere foot or two below the anchors. This pitch ain't over 'til it's over. ~100', 5.11
P4. Traverse left 10-15' on thin but positive face holds to a seam that eventually turns into a finger crack. Indeed, the face climbing appears improbable at first, but all comes together to make for some thought-provoking climbing. Make sure to have a few small to medium stoppers and long runners to protect this section. The finger crack eventually widens to hands, and leads to a large ledge on Fine Jade that is about 25' below the summit of The Rectory. Climb the 3-bolt finish to Fine Jade to the summit. ~110', 5.11
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