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Rock Climbing Photo: The wedge bolt shown in the photo is a 3/8" b...
Id# 105818687, 370 x 555px
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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Apr 24, 2006
Wedge bolts, such as those pictured, are not a good choice for the softer rock (i.e. sandstone) that's commonplace in the Santa Barbara/Ventura area. Expansion or glue-in bolts are the best choice, and in the softer rock 1/2" bolts should be considered the minimum size to be placed.
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The wedge bolt shown in the photo is a 3/8" by 3-1/2" wedge bolt pulled from the summit boulder at the Foot. The bolt was pulled straight out of its hole using only moderate pressure. While this is not a climbing-specific bolt (such as a Fixe Wedge Bolt), the lack of pull-out strength is utterly shocking.

The weak link here is the rock. Climbers should exercise caution when clipping bolts at this crag.

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 24, 2006
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