Type: Trad, Sport, 340 ft (103 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Gary Anderson, Art Messier
Page Views: 2,620 total · 12/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Climb the first two pitches if you are the ~5.8 level. Find a more exciting way to the Holy Moley Ledge to do the third pitch if you are at the ~5.10 level. First pitch is short straightforward trad climbing. Second pitch is low angle frictiony slab climbing. Third pitch is steep and cruxy all the way up.

P1 (5.8, 70 feet): Trad, two bolts, and a few cams, .5-4. You can see bolted anchor from the ground. The only trad climb on the right side that leads to a bolted anchor. Original FA says 5.8, this pitch is probably easier than that.

P2 (5.8, 130 feet): Friction up and right on a bolted slab to the Holey Moley Ledge. Bolted anchor.

P3 (5.10c, 140 feet): Thirteen bolts leads up thin climbing with some lieback moves and a small roof in the middle of the pitch. The pitch wanders slightly to follow weaknesses up the wall. Make sure to have enough draws and an anchor for this long one.

Location Suggest change

Right side. Look for only climb without a bolt line to a bolted anchor not too far from the ground.

For third pitch, furthest right climb on the Holey Moley Ledge. Just left of the dihedral with the death dagger. Look for a large undercling at the start to find this climb.

Protection Suggest change

A light rack of cams (.5-4 or thereabouts) for the first pitch. 13 draws plus two anchors for the rest. All pitches have bolted anchors. Rap on two ropes or one with more stops along the way.

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