REI Community
Flatirons Climbing Off-Trail Access - Input Needed!
Submitted By: Frances Fierst on Apr 12, 2006

Add Comment
Fellow climbers:

Off-trail access will soon be banned in so-called HCAs owned by Boulder's Open Space and Mountain Parks ("OSMP") unless the user has a permit. OSMP has been studying two areas of particular interest to climbers: (1) Eldorado Mountain, including Mickey Mouse and (2) the Western Mountain Parks, which is everything West of the ridgeline that runs from Green Mountain to Cadillac Crag. OSMP has asked the FCC to put together a proposal on behalf of the climbing community to address issues of climbing access in these areas.

After considerable discussion with climbers, we have put together a proposal that preserves as much access as possible without a permit while still meeting the City's concern that HCAs should focus on environmental preservation.

View the proposal, which gives the details for each of the affected crags and boulders.

The key points of our proposal are as follows:

1) For crags (trad and sport), all climbing will be accessible without a permit for Mickey Mouse, the Sacred Cliffs as far South as Moby Dick, Upper Peanuts, Continental, SoBo, Diamond Head, Physical Crag, Split Rock, the Veil and Cadillac. However, the access route to SoBo and Diamond Head might be less direct than what climbers normally use. The only crags that would require a permit are Cryptic Crag and the Cuban Tower.

2) For bouldering, we propose that all boulders that are within roughly 50-100 feet of a designated trail not require a permit. The list of which boulders would require a permit is somewhat complex and is detailed in the attached proposal. We have tried hard to identify the boulders that are likely to receive significant traffic and done our best to preserve access to them without a permit.

We expect to present the proposal, as modified in light of comments we receive, to OSMP within the next few weeks. If you have comments, please submit them on our contact page or email us at It is most helpful if you can focus comments on whether there are areas that should be higher (or lower) priorities for maintaining access without a permit. Their website is Flatirons Climbing Council

The permit rules will go into effect June 1, 2006. We will keep you informed of OSMP's response to our proposal and will identify which specific crags and boulders will (and will not) require a permit. We are cautiously optimistic that the amount of climbing that will require a permit will be small and your input in this process will help us achieve that goal.

Thank you,
Flatirons Climbing Council

Comments on Flatirons Climbing Off-Trail Access - Input Needed! Add Comment
By Cory Cleveland
From: Missoula, MT
Apr 13, 2006
It would be helpful to add a link to the FCC website here (i.e., the FCC contact page) to facilitate the comment submission process. The link is not currently included.
By Buff Johnson
May 11, 2006
Request for information:

FCC wrote:
1) For crags (trad and sport), all climbing will be accessible without a permit for [areas of concern as listed above] ...

With respect to this proposal, was the issue regarding access to the crags dealing with private property wherein Boulder was to try an work some type of easement agreement?

If the easement couldn't be obtained, a trail would need to be placed; with the enactment of the HCA in this area, was this the designation that would effectively restrict access?

The bulletin is somewhat unclear as to what the actual situation is restricting access and what is needed from climbers, or if this is just an update to the situation.

Any further information is appreciated.
By Frances Fierst
May 11, 2006

I do not have any further info. The info provided came from the FCC. I recommend contacting them directly for any clarifications.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About