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Middle Earth Rock Climbing
Routes in Middle Earth
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Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Centennial S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elevenses S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gift that keeps on giving., The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Premonition S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pull Me Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Red Hot S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Second Breakfast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tea and Muffins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Elevation: | 6,955 ft |
| GPS: |
32.3804, -110.70245 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 34,209 total · 156/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on Apr 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Middle Earth is a stellar crag consisting of mostly sport routes with grades from 5.9 to 5.13. The left side of the crag consists of bouldery, overhung lines starting at 5.11. This section of the crag stays shaded until 3pm. The middle of the crag features a trilogy of classic, vertical, friction routes: War Of The Worlds, The Planet Eater, and Premonition. The right side is marked by long less-than-vertical pitches and sees sun earlier, at perhaps 11am. Conditions are best during the spring and fall months; however, it is possible to climb the left hand routes during the summer. Some routes have high quality second and third pitches; some require a second rope to descend. There is cell phone reception (Verizon, April 2016).
Getting There
Pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right at mile post 15. Park at the very next pullout on the downhill (left) side of the road. This parking lot is next to a natural rock bridge and is used to access both Middle Earth and The Helmet. From the north or upper end of the pullout, hike up a gully. Prior to the crest the trail forks. Take the right branch for Middle Earth. Continue right along the ridge line before circling back and downhill to the left. The hike takes 15-20 minutes and accesses the crag from the left.
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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Guidebooks (8)
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