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Split Dome aka Split Rock
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??? 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: Rik Anderson on Mar 13, 2006  with updates from Joel Kennicutt

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Topping out on Split Dome.

Description 

This is an alternative for the one pitch climbs to the right (Howler, etc..). It has 4 pitches on it, the first being the longest and the crux (one move), with 3 other short pitches.

Pitch one: find a slot with a bolt on the left, climb straight up past 3 more bolts, at the 4th bolt move to the right to gain a jug then pull over, then head straight left to a little alcove (big enough for 3). Bolted anchor, 5.10, 120 feet.

Pitch 2: move up the slab above, clipping bolts to a BIG ledge, 60 feet, 5.7.

Pitch 3: Climb a short crumbly crack then step left to a platform, 40 feet, 5.9+.

Pitch 4: climb a shallow crack 5.4 to a final bolt protected move, 5.7, and the anchor bolts, 80 feet.

It's not the best of climbs but it is something different than the normal easy slabs off to the right.

Update from Joel Kennicutt in 2017: you need to put trad on your rack for the first pitch. The third pitch is not 5.7, but a 5.9+ with a terrible start. You need to stand on something to place your first pro. Also, you need to set up your belay stand right after The crack climb. There is no ledge to step on to. Instead it's a roof section with a small section to squeeze alone, don't take large backpacks. The second pitch includes gnarly sloped friction climbing and only includes two bolts probably giving it a PG rating. There's no raps on the route just walk down from the other side of the summit.The route name is unknown which should be changed to find the legitimate name. You will most likely need a decent size rack to send cams .5-3 and nuts, hexes are helpful too. All in all this a fairly decent route.

Location 

Look at the beta photo.

Protection 

A handful of draws and a small rack up to a #3 for pitch 1 (if you need it), 3, and 4 should be fine.


Photos of ??? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crumbly crack pitch 3.
The crumbly crack pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: James Young on pitch 1
James Young on pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of pitch 1.
Top of pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: looking at the route from the parking area
BETA PHOTO: looking at the route from the parking area

Comments on ??? Add Comment
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By dlight
Aug 15, 2012

This is a fine route in a great position.

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