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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left
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5.8 (Var.4) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Brat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Handy Andy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Eaves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mental Block T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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One Trick Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Poopooplexy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Short Job T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Something Scary T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 |
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Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X |
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Veal in a Blender T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Hans Kraus, Fritz Wiessner, 1941 |
| Page Views: | 49,586 total · 224/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
This is probably the best single pitch of 5.5 at the Trapps. The climbing so steep, you can't believe you are on a 5.5! The start is to the left of Laurel and to the right of Nosedive, at a crack system with the stump of a tall skinny tree about 15' up, below a huge hanging corner that you'll soon be walking out.
P1: Start in the obvious crack system leading to the large right-facing dihedral that starts 25' off the ground. Clip a fixed pin at the roof, and continue up the fun dihedral. At the tiered roof above, traverse left around the nose to a small ledge. (Optional belay here at pins).
One can also climb directly up through the corner rather than traversing left onto the face. It probably ups the rating a half-grade - maybe - but takes great pro, has tremendous fingerlocks, and feels awesome.
Continue up the crack and face to the top of the cliff. A real gem...
Descent: Walking down by the Uberfall Descent is usually the best option; walk north, trending close to the cliff edge, until you find yourself atop of Ken's crack.
You can rap with two ropes from a tree to the left, but consider that the carriage road is at its busiest point here, with dogs and babies and cyclists and tourists hanging out -right- where your ropes will land, blindly, when you toss them.
A single 70m does get you to the ground, and there are reports of some 60m ropes getting there with rope stretch and/or downclimbing -- but the last 40' of the rappel are free-hanging, making errors very difficult to correct.
P1: Start in the obvious crack system leading to the large right-facing dihedral that starts 25' off the ground. Clip a fixed pin at the roof, and continue up the fun dihedral. At the tiered roof above, traverse left around the nose to a small ledge. (Optional belay here at pins).
One can also climb directly up through the corner rather than traversing left onto the face. It probably ups the rating a half-grade - maybe - but takes great pro, has tremendous fingerlocks, and feels awesome.
Continue up the crack and face to the top of the cliff. A real gem...
Descent: Walking down by the Uberfall Descent is usually the best option; walk north, trending close to the cliff edge, until you find yourself atop of Ken's crack.
You can rap with two ropes from a tree to the left, but consider that the carriage road is at its busiest point here, with dogs and babies and cyclists and tourists hanging out -right- where your ropes will land, blindly, when you toss them.
A single 70m does get you to the ground, and there are reports of some 60m ropes getting there with rope stretch and/or downclimbing -- but the last 40' of the rappel are free-hanging, making errors very difficult to correct.
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