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Eldorado Canyon Fixed Hardware Review Committee
Submitted By: John McNamee on Feb 10, 2006

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Apply for the FHRC and give something back to Eldorado!

ACE, the Action Committee for Eldorado Canyon, is seeking applicants for the Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC). The FHRC is a standing committee and an integral part of ACE.

ACE is seeking enthusiastic, reasonable, open minded, dedicated climbers of all skill levels and backgrounds to serve on the FHRC, review new hardware applications, provide the climbing community with the opportunity to comment and vote on applications and present the consensus to Eldorado State Park.

Each year ACE appoints local climbers to serve on the FHRC and administer the review process. FHRC members are responsible for polling the climbing community to determine the community's view on new route proposals and proposals regarding the addition or relocation of fixed gear. FHRC members vote for or against proposals based on the local climbing community's opinion, rather than on their own personal opinion of the proposal. Based on the local climbing community's opinion of the proposals, the FHRC makes a recommendation to the Park on behalf of ACE to either approve or disapprove those proposals. Although this recommendation is advisory and the Park is free to accept or reject ACE's recommendation, in ACE's 14 year history, the Park has never rejected an ACE recommendation.

The process provides a mechanism for the legal establishment of new routes requiring fixed gear or the addition of fixed gear to existing routes consistent with the wishes of the local climbing community. The FHRC process has been a successful one. The local climbing community supports the process and the Park's climbing management plan.

If you would like to apply, more information can be found here: aceeldo

or you can send your application, via email:

or us mail: Action Committee for Eldorado/FHRC App, PO Box 337, Eldorado Springs, CO 80025

Please forward this email to all those who may be interested in serving on the FHRC. Applications must be received by ACE by 1 March 2006 to be considered.

Thanks to Lauren di Scipio, ACE Committee Member for providing this updated information.

Comments on Eldorado Canyon Fixed Hardware Review Committee Add Comment
By Gary Park
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 10, 2006
Thanks for providing a forum/clearinghouse for progressive climbing dialogue. We were on Rewritten yesterday, and I wanted to pass on a couple of comments. At the top of the beautiful 4th pitch there are a couple alternatives for belaying: 1) there is a narrow belay ledge where the .7 variation on the 5th pitch goes out right around a large block and the .8 variation goes up a corner/ramp up & then left; and, 2) about thirty feet above this first belay following the .8 variation is a preferable belay with plenty of protection options and room for more than one party. On the lower belay, I discovered the big block moves!!! This is a stone that weighs a good couple of tons. I wanted to suggest that people not use the lower belay since most of the apparent available protection is in the crack between the block and the face. At some point it may make sense to trundle the block off the face under controlled conditions. On a more "fixed protection" matter, I would like to throw out a thought about the chimney slot on pitch 3. This chimney is the only compromise in the quality of the Rewritten line - it is awkward, slick, but not particularly hard. Because I took the pack on the 3rd pitch yesterday, I was on a toprope at the chimney so I took the face moves to the left of the chimney. This alternative is quite aesthetic but devoid of protection options for the leader. I would ask the FHRC to consider setting a single fixed pin or bolt on this variation; thereby making it a practical lead for the "typical" Rewritten leader. My guess is that this variation goes at about .8+/.9-; a little harder than the rest of the route, but a worthy parallel alternative to the chimney option. Thanks for your consideration.

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