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Howling at the Wind
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.6 from 39
votes
Routes in The Pages Wall Area
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44, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cheap Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El Camino Real T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fat City Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Final Chapter, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frisky Puppies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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George's Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Plains Drifter T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Howling at the Wind T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Midway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Music T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Osiris T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Outlander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Perelandra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pseudo Wallet Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stepped On T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wolfie and the Scientist T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Alec Sharp and John Cleaver, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 8,768 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Jun 1, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This incredible route attacks arguably the most striking line on the entire Book, the huge dihedral which splits the right side of the Book on its lower half.
Hike up to the Book, bearing left just before the rock. Go around an outcrop and then back right to reach the huge dihedral. Pitch one is a long hand and fist crack in the corner, and the crux is easily visible above: a triangular roof on pitch two, about 130 feet up the corner.
P1. Climb the long, excellent 5.9+ hand crack in the corner. A nice variation, requiring a smaller rack, starts up a thin crack which branches out left low in the corner (5.10a) and then traverses back to the hand crack at either a small tree or higher at a scary foot traverse. Belay just above a very large block wedged into the crack.
P2. Climb the remainder of the corner, place a couple good pieces, and then undercling out left and go around the left edge of the roof (crux, with the potential to slam back into the corner, as the crack under the roof narrows to nothing). Thin but excellent 5.10 liebacking continues straight up to a good belay ledge.
P3. Continue up a thin, short 5.9 corner, and then head up and right on easier ground for a long pitch to the cave area. Exit via the cave or pick something more compelling such as Outlander, Cheap Date, Final Chapter etc.
Hike up to the Book, bearing left just before the rock. Go around an outcrop and then back right to reach the huge dihedral. Pitch one is a long hand and fist crack in the corner, and the crux is easily visible above: a triangular roof on pitch two, about 130 feet up the corner.
P1. Climb the long, excellent 5.9+ hand crack in the corner. A nice variation, requiring a smaller rack, starts up a thin crack which branches out left low in the corner (5.10a) and then traverses back to the hand crack at either a small tree or higher at a scary foot traverse. Belay just above a very large block wedged into the crack.
P2. Climb the remainder of the corner, place a couple good pieces, and then undercling out left and go around the left edge of the roof (crux, with the potential to slam back into the corner, as the crack under the roof narrows to nothing). Thin but excellent 5.10 liebacking continues straight up to a good belay ledge.
P3. Continue up a thin, short 5.9 corner, and then head up and right on easier ground for a long pitch to the cave area. Exit via the cave or pick something more compelling such as Outlander, Cheap Date, Final Chapter etc.
Protection
Bring a standard rack, with extra #3-3.5 Friends and a #4 Friend to sew up the top of the first pitch. However, if doing the .10a variation to P1, no doubles are necessary (though the optional #4 Friend still applies). A piece such as a 0 TCU could be a help or hindrance, as it might be your best pro, while blocking your best handhold at the crux. RPs are a psychological aid.
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