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Routes in The Bastille - W Face
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Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blind Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Breakfast in Bed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Plain Sight T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Out to Lunge Variation T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Face Directissma T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Type: |
Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | Duncan Ferguson |
| Page Views: | 9,479 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a steep, exposed route that is a good alternative if Hair City and the West Buttress are occupied or a good route just to do in its own right. Hike up the West Face of the Bastille past a large block to where the face first makes a sharp jog inward, forming a pocketed arete.
P1. Climb the arete, with tricky protection at first, then belay in a recess, or climb a chimney to a large ledge with bolts. You can rap from here to the ground, angling to the right up the hill, with a 70m. It can be done with a 60m if you are willing to do some reasonable but not entirely trivial downclimbing, or maybe without any downclimbing if you can swing really far to the right, but I can hardly recommend this. Knot the ends either way on this rap.
P2. If not rapping, choose from 3 alternatives above the belay: the West Face, a 5.8 crack to the right (with a rotten start); Hair City, which tackles the steepest part of the overhang at 5.9, directly above; or the West Buttress to the left, which climbs a shallow chimney over the left side of the overhang. All 3 reach another ledge, where one may belay or continue easily to the top of the Bastille.
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