Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
As We Liked It
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 24
votes
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
|
|
A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Born Under Punches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
|
|
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | P. Ament & G. Ringsby, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,536 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 7, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Follow the directions to the "North Buttress" of the West Ridge, by the area favorites Xanadu and Chockstone.
Identify the route Xanadu at the right-hand end of the SouthWest facing portion of the North Buttress. Xanadu is a hanging dihedral with a small crack and a small "Dr. Seuss" looking tree growing out of it 60 feet up. The next major crack system to the left (~15' NorthWest) is in a series of left facing dihedrals. This is S&M (5.7). Another 10' or so to the left of S&M is a thin crack capped by a four-to-six-inch flake with a seam beginning it. Above that the thin crack is seam-like and there are a few small ledges with bits of grass growing in the cracks behind them. This system is 'As We Liked It.'
The route is more or less a "hard start" variation to S&M and skips the so-so climbing at the bottom of S&M.
Climb the thin crack to where it becomes an undercling under a hanging flake. Place a few more small pieces and move up and slightly right into seams and on to a small ledge for rest. The moves are a little tweaky, and probably harder than the 10a grade given by Rossiter. I'll say 5.10 and leave it to you to subdivide. From the rest, the climb moves up into a hanging dihedral above and finishes in that system, heading left into a second dihedral as the one overhead becomes less desirable. This is the same as for the route S&M.
Identify the route Xanadu at the right-hand end of the SouthWest facing portion of the North Buttress. Xanadu is a hanging dihedral with a small crack and a small "Dr. Seuss" looking tree growing out of it 60 feet up. The next major crack system to the left (~15' NorthWest) is in a series of left facing dihedrals. This is S&M (5.7). Another 10' or so to the left of S&M is a thin crack capped by a four-to-six-inch flake with a seam beginning it. Above that the thin crack is seam-like and there are a few small ledges with bits of grass growing in the cracks behind them. This system is 'As We Liked It.'
The route is more or less a "hard start" variation to S&M and skips the so-so climbing at the bottom of S&M.
Climb the thin crack to where it becomes an undercling under a hanging flake. Place a few more small pieces and move up and slightly right into seams and on to a small ledge for rest. The moves are a little tweaky, and probably harder than the 10a grade given by Rossiter. I'll say 5.10 and leave it to you to subdivide. From the rest, the climb moves up into a hanging dihedral above and finishes in that system, heading left into a second dihedral as the one overhead becomes less desirable. This is the same as for the route S&M.
Protection
The bottom moves of this route are protected on thin gear. Several small nuts can be placed to protect, but these may be difficult to put in. I did not use micro cams at the time, but they may work. I believe that Ball nuts would add ease and security to the protection at the low crux. A standard rack will protect the rest.
The landing at the base is pretty good, so a spotter and crash pad could probably prevent any real injury.
The landing at the base is pretty good, so a spotter and crash pad could probably prevent any real injury.
6 Comments