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Frictionite
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.4 from 15
votes
Routes in Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)
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Arrowhead V8 7B |
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Beep Beep Sheep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Frictionite S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mists of Mordor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Staff V3 6A |
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Trash Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Travis Thompson |
| Page Views: | 1,497 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Travis Thompson on Sep 11, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
I bolted and climbed this route at about an easy 5.9 or so, then there was a big loose block just before the second bolt, so I removed it for safety sake and then realized that it made the climb a lot harder. I haven't been able to figure it out yet, maybe someone with some good slab technique can.
The bottom to the first bolt is kind of loose, but once again I have never pulled down anything [unexpectedly]. This isn't worth driving up for in and of itself, but if you're in the area give it a shot.
The bottom to the first bolt is kind of loose, but once again I have never pulled down anything [unexpectedly]. This isn't worth driving up for in and of itself, but if you're in the area give it a shot.
Protection
This is the short climb just before Mists of Mordor. There are three bolts and a two-bolt anchor.
3 Comments