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Hard but Fun
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Unknown Crag at Palisade Mountain
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Hard but Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Al Simons/C.J. Simons |
| Page Views: | 1,019 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | allen simons on Jan 22, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Go up a slab up and right to a slanting crack, place gear and step out on the slab aiming straight up for the obvious flake above. One 5.7 move (R)gets you to great holds. mantle up on the holds under the large right slanting flake. Place a large cam or two and lay back the flake till you gain the short OW Chimney. Good crack in back of the OW for a 1/2 -1 inch cam. A long reach or a short wiggle up the OW gains a bucket to pull on to top out. Rappel off of trees or rock or continue slogging uphill to some incredible looking walls.
Protection
1 or 2 1/2-1 inch cams for the lower crack and the upper Off Width. 2-4 inch cams for the flake.
Approach
Park at the paved pullout for Nancy's Rock (6 miles up the canyon from the Biege Siphon Tube) and start up the trail. After 80 feet or so, venture right off of the trail to the next gully east. Bushwhack up hill (steep) aiming for a short band of walls on the west side of the gully 1/2 way up the mountain. Some makeshift cairns mark a pseudo trail. The route is located on the far right side of a the 30-70 foot wall.
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