Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: D.Mabe, FFA: P.Hunt
Page Views: 3,090 total · 13/month
Shared By: Wiled Horse on May 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

EDIT (for a logical pitch break-down):

P1. Climb Billy, but after the second overlap around mid-way, sneak right to belay at Wild Child's P1 anchors. 11b.

P2. Use the first clip of Wild Child starting P2, then continue the rest of the Billy pitch, but continue up and left, with the first 3 bolts of Gneiss Route up to the Rocketman ledge. 12a.

P3. Climb out the huge Rocketman roof, 8 bolts. There is a brief move of 5.11 around bolt 3, and the crux is pulling over the biggest part of the roof at bolt 7 (5.12c). Belay at airy stance above the roof. 12c.

P4. Cruise past 4 bolts on the Northeast arete to Surette Ledge. 5.7.

Descent: From Surette, rap 65' to the roof lip and 200' to the ground (BIG AIR!).

Protection Suggest change

12 draws/slings of various lengths. 2 60m ropes for rap.

If linking all of Billy and part of Gneiss Route in one pitch, you will need about 20 draws/slings.

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