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Routes in Shameless Tower
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Child's Play aka Yellowbelly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hands of Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Kidnapper Van T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Make Arete's Great Again aka (MAGA) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stimulus Package T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 770 ft (233 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jason Seaver and Justin DuBois |
| Page Views: | 1,243 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | justin dubois on Aug 3, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This route follows a line up the very distinct righthand gendarme on the Arrowhead/McHenry's ridge "the Shameless Tower". It connects crack systems along the right side of this pronounced pillar in four full pitches.
To start look for a large, worm-shaped pillar at the start of pitch two, about 250 feet above the grassy ledges/slabs. Start down and right of this pillar on a ledge 20' below a right facing corner with a left-angling splitter on it's right wall. A spot of fifth class gets you to this ledge, coming in from the right.
Another landmark is the beautiful handcrack at the end of the second pitch that splits an obvious red wall.
To descend, walk right (east) a few hundred feet to the lowest point of the ridge, and do three rappels on fixed anchors with two ropes.
1. Climb the angling splitter to a pair of short handcracks, that lead to a detached spike. Angle left, then right on moderate terrain to a belay below a tight, left-facing corner (the left side of the worm shaped pillar). 180'.
2. Climb up this corner (10-), to some wedged blocks. Undercling [left] (10-). Head up to a right arching flake. Climb the flake (thin 10-) to another left-facing dihedral. Up this corner with brilliant exit moves out onto the face below the splitter handcrack. Climb the handcrack and belay just as your partner is about to start climbing. 190'.
3. Go up a ramp on the left, up into a corner system (5.8) and follow this for thirty feet. Step right at an obvious, thin, right-arching flake. Layback the flake (pumpy 10+) to a sloping, awkward ledge. Balance right and belay. 170'.
4. Climb a short corner and do a weird mantle onto a grassy ledge. The crux corner starts off this ledge. Climb the corner and obvious, crack system above with very sustained stemming and jamming (11+) 190'. Belay at a small ledge, and do a short easy pitch to the abrupt summit.
To start look for a large, worm-shaped pillar at the start of pitch two, about 250 feet above the grassy ledges/slabs. Start down and right of this pillar on a ledge 20' below a right facing corner with a left-angling splitter on it's right wall. A spot of fifth class gets you to this ledge, coming in from the right.
Another landmark is the beautiful handcrack at the end of the second pitch that splits an obvious red wall.
To descend, walk right (east) a few hundred feet to the lowest point of the ridge, and do three rappels on fixed anchors with two ropes.
1. Climb the angling splitter to a pair of short handcracks, that lead to a detached spike. Angle left, then right on moderate terrain to a belay below a tight, left-facing corner (the left side of the worm shaped pillar). 180'.
2. Climb up this corner (10-), to some wedged blocks. Undercling [left] (10-). Head up to a right arching flake. Climb the flake (thin 10-) to another left-facing dihedral. Up this corner with brilliant exit moves out onto the face below the splitter handcrack. Climb the handcrack and belay just as your partner is about to start climbing. 190'.
3. Go up a ramp on the left, up into a corner system (5.8) and follow this for thirty feet. Step right at an obvious, thin, right-arching flake. Layback the flake (pumpy 10+) to a sloping, awkward ledge. Balance right and belay. 170'.
4. Climb a short corner and do a weird mantle onto a grassy ledge. The crux corner starts off this ledge. Climb the corner and obvious, crack system above with very sustained stemming and jamming (11+) 190'. Belay at a small ledge, and do a short easy pitch to the abrupt summit.
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