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Routes in Main Canyon
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Drug Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drugs Are Nice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Friend of the Devil S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Egg, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Trouble S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gunks Pump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jesus Liquid S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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La Bruja S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Perfection V5 6C |
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Prince of Peace S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rocca de Luna S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Show Her Your Stem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Weave Your Spell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Woof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Working Hour, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Jay V |
| Page Views: | 818 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Jay V on Nov 15, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Prince of Peace is a bolted line that was put up in the traditional style, on lead with a hammer & hand drill while hanging from scary hooks. It is located far down the main canyon in the same branch as Gunks Pump. It is the route immediatel left of "The Golden Egg" 5.8, and shares the same top anchors. This route has some flair and surprising variety to it! Start on small edges and go straight up for 12 ft to the first bolt. Climb edges over a sloping ledge to the second bolt and a "Thank God" pocket. Continue up great slabby stuff to the 3rd bolt, then walk gently, keeping left (right gets manky!) for the thrilling runout to the anchors. If it looks runout, well it is. But there is no deck potential unless your belayer is slacking. Everything is mathmatically correct so you can have a fun, thrilling, yet safe climb. It's different from the common laboratory safe, bolt at yer waist, routes. With that known, you can also TR it if you lead Golden Egg to the anchors. But lead it before you leave or it will haunt you in your dreams!
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