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Second Angel's Wing (aka South Wing Right?)
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British R
Avg: 2.9 from 13
votes
Routes in Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings
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First Angel's Wing West Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1+ |
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Middle Wing (4th Wing), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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North Wing Center T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Second Angel's Wing (aka South Wing Right?) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 1100 ft (333 m), 9 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ted Cetaruk, Tom Burke, LP?, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 2,828 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 1, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Hey, does anyone know of previously done rock routes here? There is potential for 9 pitch slab routes in a close but remote feeling location. These 5 wings are just south of Bear Peak, near the summit ridge, facing East. They are probably most angelic when dusted with powder.
Approach as if headed to Shadow Canyon area. We parked at the new Mesa Trailhead about a mile outside of Eldorado Springs on CO Hwy 170. Hike up South Mesa trail to Big Bluestem, head North, pass the Maiden, then bushwhack uphill. It is perhaps 2500 feet elevation gain. There is an old dilapidated structure along the way.
P1. Find the nadir of the face. Wander up to a horizontal tree.
P2. Pass overhang via a lieback and anchor below a tree at the 2nd overhang.
P3. Chimney to a face to a tenuous belay.
P4. Dance on fun slab pitches as you follow protection opportunities. Much of this is slab wherever your heart leads you. Our 4th belay was on a sloping stance with where you can sling a horn.
P5. Our 5th belay went up to a corner protected with hexes.
P6. Our 6th belay was at a tree with 2 cam placements.
P7. Our 7th belay was at a perch with a #2 Camalot.
P8. Our 8th pitch went up blunt rib to a tree.
P9. Our 9th pitch went to the top.
To escape, downclimb easy terrain to ridge and scramble down to the saddle at the top of Shadow Canyon.
Approach as if headed to Shadow Canyon area. We parked at the new Mesa Trailhead about a mile outside of Eldorado Springs on CO Hwy 170. Hike up South Mesa trail to Big Bluestem, head North, pass the Maiden, then bushwhack uphill. It is perhaps 2500 feet elevation gain. There is an old dilapidated structure along the way.
P1. Find the nadir of the face. Wander up to a horizontal tree.
P2. Pass overhang via a lieback and anchor below a tree at the 2nd overhang.
P3. Chimney to a face to a tenuous belay.
P4. Dance on fun slab pitches as you follow protection opportunities. Much of this is slab wherever your heart leads you. Our 4th belay was on a sloping stance with where you can sling a horn.
P5. Our 5th belay went up to a corner protected with hexes.
P6. Our 6th belay was at a tree with 2 cam placements.
P7. Our 7th belay was at a perch with a #2 Camalot.
P8. Our 8th pitch went up blunt rib to a tree.
P9. Our 9th pitch went to the top.
To escape, downclimb easy terrain to ridge and scramble down to the saddle at the top of Shadow Canyon.
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